
A 



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Scientific Dress Cutting 
and Making 



'' The Harriet A, Brown System 

SIMPLIFIED AND IMPROVED 



J J 



DIRECTIONS FOR ITS USE 



PUBLISHED BV 



HARRIET A. BROWN 

Invejitor and Pate.nt,ee 




s i^y 



The United States of America, by act of Con- 
gress, has authorized the World's Coiunnbian Com- 
mission at the International Exhibition held in the 
City of Chicago, State of Illinois, in the year 1893: 



To decree a medal for specific merit, 'h'hich is set forth 
belo'w olyer the name of an indi'vidual judge acting as an 
examiner upon the finding of a board of international 
judges, to SMrs. HARRIET A, BROWN, Boston, SMass., 
I49a Tremont Street, for a simple Tailor Dress Cutting 
System. cAlso for a method of cutting a seamless shoul- 
der by its use. 

H. I. KIM'BALL, 

President 'Department Committee. 

T. W. TcALMER, 

President World's Columbian Commission. 

HcANNAH F%EUD, 

Individual Judge. 





PREFACE. 

It is the mission of the poet to praise the feminine form, of tlie 
painter to picture it, of the sculptor to hring its iiU'ul to visibility in 
lifeless stone. It is the dressmaker's more useful, if more humble, 
mission, to make the most and l)est of the actual livini;- feminine form 
by scientific and artistic develo])nient aud adonunent. 

To assist working dressmakers, by enabling' tbeni with ease and 
certainty to make woman's dress to conforui to all llie u'raceful curves 
of her figure, and fit perfectly, is the design of the system described 
in this book. 

That this system has, on its own merits, won a marked success and 
the commendation of the best (|ualilie(l judges, is demonstrated bv the 
extent to whi<'h it has been adoi)ted as the best teachin*'- svstem b\- 
the great industrial S(di()ols of America, aud by the nu'dals attesting its 
superiority granted by the great American Expositions. 

The speciiic ])urpose of this volume is to answer a widely expressed 
demand for printed instructions in the Harriet A. Brown System ; also 
to convey to those who have already adopted the system an easy 
means of further acquaintance with the latest improvements, which 
greatly enhance its value. 



TABLE OF CONTEMTS. 

^^^ ^^^ f^^ — '^ ' 



Portrait of Mrs. Harriet A. Urown, Facini!; 

Award of Columbian Kxj)Ositioii 

Medal of World's Columbian Commission 

Preface . . . • • • 

Dress Cutting and Making College 

A Word oi- Two about iMyself 

Science in Diess .... 

Facts One Should Know 

The Chart ...... 

Lessons by Mail ..... 

Course of Instruction .... 



J'A(iK 

T'lth-page 
4 
5 
6 
i> 
10-lB 

15 

16, 17 

17, 18 

18, r.) 



DIKKCTIOXS FOR USE. 



To Take ^Measure's for Waist . 

To Draft a Waist 

Waist Draft — Hegistry — Front . 
Tracing out Lining — To Uaste Lining on 
Basting Waist Together .... 
Fitting the Waist on — Stitching Waist . 
Binding Seams — Finishing l)Ottom 
To Bone a Waist .... 

Measures for Sleeve .... 

To Draft Sleeve — ITow to Cut and Baste 
Basting Sleeves in (Garment . 
Double Draft for Stout Figures 

The Child's Draft 

The Seamless Shoulder .... 
The Skirt (Draft of Seven-gore Skirt) . 
Table for Assisting in Drafting Pattern . 
Dii-ections for Di-afting With or Without 
For the Eton Jacket .... 
To Draft a Shirtwaist .... 
Pressboard for Skirts, Waists and Sleeves 
Draft for Coat 



On 



SU 



idc 





21 


^1, 


Ov) 




•23 


•i4. 


•25 




•25 




20 




27 




28 


■28, 


29 




29 




30 


30, 


31 


?A 


-33 




33 




34 




35 


85, 


36 




36 


•5 ( 


3S 




3.S 
3<.» 



TABLE OF CONTENTS— Continued, 



GENERALITIES. 



Basting an Art in Itself .... 
The Man Dressmaker .... 
How Can I Become a Good Dressmaker . 

Food for Thought 

How to Keep a Good P^igure . 

Worth, the Dressmaker .... 

Why are Dressmakers Waiting for Positions 
Foreign Dressmakers Compared witli American 
" A Woman is Known by the Clothes She Wears " 
Homeless Women ...... 

Well-trained Teachers ..... 

Literature and Dressmakmg Combined . 



41-43 

43, 44 

44 

46 

47 

47-49 

49 

50-53 

52-54 

54, 55 

55, 56 

56, 57 



SPECIMEN TESTIMONIALS. 



Notices by Home Journal — Dorchester Beacon — Woman's 
Journal — Sunday Budget — Saturday Evening Gazette 
— Sunday Times — Cambridge Chronicle 



59-64 



TESTIMONIALS OF SOME WHO HAVE TESTED 
THE SYSTEM BY EXPERIENCE. 



S. A, Colby — C. Roxborough — Lucie A. Smart — Helen G. 
Nichols — Isabel A. Ilanmiond — M. E. Campbell — 
Josephine C. Estes — Madam Taylor — Mary A. Kenney — 
Marie A. O'Connell — Adelaide C. Godfrey— II. E. 
Emerson — C. W. Carlton — Officials Y. W. C. A., 
Newark, N.J. — Annie McKey — Elsie Jones — Susie E. 
Gray — Mrs. L. M. Knight — E. B. Prettymau — Sarah 
E. Richmond — Annie M. O'Dea — Clara C. Davis — A, 
S. Hamilton — II. E. Morse — M. E. Pool — Mrs, Harring- 
ton — E. S. Raines — L. A. Twombly — Laura A. Smith — 
M.P.Delano — Matthew Anderson 

Notices of Institutions . .,.,... 



61-75 

76-80 



DRESS CUTTING 6 
MAKING COLLEGE 

HARRIET A. BROWN. Principal 

With Competent Assistants 

Lawrence Building, 1493 Tremont Street 

BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS 

The F i r i t Institution of i t s K i n d in t h c U n i t e d States 



The HARRIET A. BROWN SYSTEM Theoretically and Practically and Thor- 
oughly Taught. Dressmakers prepared to be teachers of the System in Industrial and 
other Institutions: the demand for competent teachers being always greater than the supply 

DRESSMAKING ROOMS 

In the actual work here done the merits of this System will be demonstrated 

to all interested inquirers 



TERMS: 

System, with instruction in Designing, Measuring, Drafting, Cut- 
ting and Basting, $20. 

To practiced dressmakers wisliing to discard their old svstems, consideration 
will be given; also to experienced seamstresses. 

To those who without experience or previous studv must begin at the begin- 
ning, a thorough course in all the parts and technicalities of dressmaking, 535, time 
not limited, and cutting and making costumes for themselves allowed. 

Special prices to those who wish to learn and use the system at home. 

Lessons also hv the hour. 



The icork of this College is commended by more than Three Thousand 
Graduates, many of whom are receiving salaries larger than the average busi- . 
ness man's. 



A Word or Two About Myself. 

When quite younii' I learned the tailor's trade, giving- three years 
of my time, which made me a competent worker on all kinds of men's 
garments. 

I worked a short time and was then married ; hut my married life 
was of short duration. I then found mj^self dependent on my own 
unaided endeavors. 1 did not despair nor complain, hut set myself to 
woi'k. 

1 learned the millinery and dressmaking trades, and had at least some 
talent in both these lines of work. In a short time I started out for 
myself in the millinery business, and after a, few years added to it the 
dressmaking. I soon saw that 1 was better adapted to the latter trade, 
and that more success awaited me in tliat line than in the millinery. 
I then closed out mv millinerv, and u-ave mv whole attention to dress- 
making. 

When in the early seventies of the last century I beg;in (h'essmak- 
ing in Boston, 1 felt that to he successful one must make a specialty 
of some one branch of work. 1 soon found myself able to do work of 
about the average merit among the other dressmakers. 

In a short time after beginning, it became an important part of 
my l)usiness to ii:i\e instruction to my assistants. It was then that I 
learned of the need of some method l)y wliicli instruction might be 
uniform and exact. 

I learned two systems : the first, a Mrs. Inwood's System, which has 
long been useless ; the other, the S. T. Taylor System, invented about 
fifty years ago. 

With this second system I gave one week to drafting, and ])ecame 
convinced that it was time thrown away. 1 made up my mind that it 
was all a matter of guesswork. There was no system to be found that 
would, on trial, prove of any earthly use in practical dressmaking. 

10 



A WORD OR TWO ABOUT HYSELF 



While my dressmaking parlors were always well patronized, and 
my work compared favorably with the best done iji the city, there 
remained the nncertainty of snccess, and, worse than all, frecpient fail- 
ures of well-meaning- and industrious young women to become self-sup- 
porting, or even to be desirable helpei's in my own ])arlors. 

This state of things set my Yankee wits to work. ''Necessity," it 
is said, " is the motliei- of invention." I was, without previous plan of 
my own, comjielled to use my native wit in reducing dress cutting and 
making to a teachable svstem. 

I saw what ad\;mtage there was among the tailors in having a 
method of systematic measurements for men's garments. I soon found 
that this was only ])artially adaptable to the dressmaker's art. 1 saw, 
however, that the science on which it was based could be applied in my 
work. 

While the *' tailor's s(pi;n-e " was |)roved to be out of place in tiie 
hands of a dressmaker, 1 found means by which an ordinarilv intel- 
ligent girl could, by simple accuracy in following directions, make a 
waist fit as gracefully to the form as a (h-st-class tailor could make 
a dress-coat lit the most fashionable voung man. 

In 1<SS() I had so far perfected my system that 1 felt justified in 
offering it to supply a widely confessed need. In that year I started 
in Boston the first college ever opened for the education of young 
women in the entire art of cutting and making dresses. Such colleges 
have now become vvvy numerous; but 1 am sure no one can intelli- 
gently conti-adict me when I say that 1 opened the first Dressmaking 
College on this continent, and, so far as ] know, the first in the woi-Id. 

Complete success, even from this pohit, was not easy. The supe- 
riority of my system from the start made many covetous of its advan- 
tages. The valuable inventions that had cost me weeks, months, even 
years, of study and experiment, were appropriated without acknowledg- 
ment or thanks, by rival dressmakers. 1 was positively compelled to 
patent my inventions. 

In 1881 I exhibited my first system at the fair held by the Massa- 
chusetts Charitable Mechanic Association in Boston. At that time, in 
order to })rove the merit of my work, 1 daily cut and tried on waists 

11 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND MAKING 



free of charge, for the public to criticise. I followed this for many 
weeks, and when the highest award was given nie, I felt that I had well 
earned it. 

At the fairs held three and six years later, the highest nied;ils were 
also awarded to my system. 

Soon after this I introduced my improved simplified system, which 
took the first medal at the Columbian Exposition in 181)12. After my 
system had in this way become favorably known, imitations became 
numerous. 

It may be an occasion of curiosity to some of my old friends that 
my system is now universally called " The Harriet A. Brown System," 
instead of, as at first, " The Brown System." The reason is, that the 
name " Brown " being a common one, several spurious systems have 
been named " Brown Systems," for the express purpose of obtaining 
business under cover of my reputation. It has been a business neces- 
sity for me to protect my patents, and in some instances to enforce 
in] unctions on rival estaljlishments. This has been, to be sure, very 
disaoreeable, and has caused me much nervous strain. But whatever I 
have done or may hereafter do. in this line, is justified by the natural 
law of self-preservation. 

That my system obtained a great triumph at the Columbian Expo- 
sition in Chicago, must l)e by all conceded. To competent judges was 
committed the duty of designating the best dressmaking system in the 
world ; and this award was given to my system. It is a similar testi- 
mony of superiority that virtually all the great industrial institutions 
of America, fomided for the express purpose of helping young people of 
both sexes to become experts in practical business, that they may be 
better enabled to earn their own livelihood, have selected this system 
as the best for their uses. See the list of these institutions, together 
with the industrial departments of the Young Women's Christian Asso- 
ciations in many of our cities; consider what a recommendation of the 
system it is that these, with all other systems to select from, see in this 
a simplicity and directness of adaptation that make it the very best for 
their uses. 

The practical superiority of this system has been many times dem- 

12 



SCIENCE IN DRESS 



onstrated hy making a perfect fit without tlie dress being tried on. 
This method is not recommended as a rule ; hut the system is now so 
perfected in completeness and exactness that one practiced in handling 
it may with entire confidence guarantee a good fit without the dress 
being even once tried on. 

But the success of my system in whicli \ take the most satisfaction 
is the assistance it has given to Inuuh-eds and thousands of young 
women wlio have had their own way to make in the world, and with 
whom real friends have been none too plenty. This system has been 
their best possible earthly friend, by enabling them to help themselves 
and secure personal independence. JIow many of these young women, 
who have been brought from a state of dependence to self-respect and 
usefulness, have confessed their indebtedness to the system which I have 
1)V years of patient study })re])ared for them. It is indeed a deep 
satisfaction in my years of maturity, that my life-work, with all its 
wearying toils, has been of real benefit to so many struggling young 
women, whom my own experience has taught me to regard with 
heartfelt sympathy. 



Science in Dress. 

SciEXCE in dressmaking has to do only with the principles on which 
correct dress fitting and tasteful dress finishing must be based. 

P'ashion in its A^ery nature is ever changing, and, as all know, in 
few things does fashion change oftener than in the minoi- modelin": 
of ladies' dresses. It is more than the most of us can do to karn 
even what the exact fashion in ladies' dresses really is; it is more than 
any of us can do to foretell what and when the next fasliion — in size 
of skirt, in furbelows, in ornamentation — is to be. 

If a student of dressmakimi: could be an observer of an ultra-fash- 
ionable assembly of the most c///.c of the '"upper ten," or the "four 
hundred." where the fortunes that may be devoted to dress are small 
if not reckoned in scores of millions, where each dress is a separate 
creation, and must be a '•' dream " and a '* poem," would it be within 

13 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND MAKING 



limits of tlie possible for such an observer to report the prevailing 
fashion? Truly, to discover the existing mode, when evei-y tlrcss 
would be a failure if not different from every other dress, would pu/zle 
the best of us. Yet, as we readily see, even in this fascinating variety 
there would be some conunon characteristics. If, for instance, we 
should note that the skirt or the sleeves of any dress were of a by-gone 
mode, that dress would ))e a failure. Just what the fashion is in such 
a select company, where the whole world and all past ages can be 
drawn from to make woman's dress ideal, it would he a very alert 
observer, truly, who could determine. 

And if we could by any genius of alertness decide what the 
existing fashion is. how cau one learn when and in what the ])resent 
mode will change? Shall we trust the fashion maga/ines? In theii- 
periodical announcements they miss as often as they hit. and it would 
surely be a pitiable woman who tried literally to compress hei'self into 
the likeness of the models of the magazine fashion-])lates. Shall we go 
to Paris, and see, first-hand, the creations of the woi'ld-i'cnowned men 
(h-essmakers of the French capital? By the time we got back to 
America the style might have got there ahead of us, and been supei'- 
seded. Fashion in woman's dress is indeed always too vanishiug a 
thing to vield to any one a full and satisfying view. Let us not re- 
u-ret that it is so. Chanue, in its ])lace, is desirable. We need it in 
dress, as in other tilings, to be saved from dread monotony. 

It scarcely need be said that this volume does not aim to be a 
fashion-book. It makes no ])retence of giving information in regard 
to passing fashions in wonuuTs dress. 

It does aim to give practical instruction in the science of dress 
cuttino" and makinu-. 

Science in preparing a dress — that is. exact application of the laws 
of proportion, symmetry, neatne.ss — is essential to beauty in all 
fashicms of women's dresses. 

Who has not seen on some woman of crude taste a dress of rare 
material and costly embellishment which, for want of scientiiic cutting 
and making, has had a disagreealde appearance of slovenliness or 
dowdiness ? 

14 



FACTS ONE SHOULD KNOW 



What may be expected of this vohiine is that the one who thor- 
oughly learns and carefully aj)plies the scientific system of which it ia 
the exponent, will be able to make any dress of any fashion fit and grace 
the special form of the woman for wliom it is designed. 

The principles herein set forth are as essential to correct dressmak- 
ing in the dreamy ball dress of hand-made hu-c, as to the becoming 
street dress made of the most ordinary nuiterial. 

Only by application of scientific principles can any dress be made 
comfortable to the wearer and pleasure-giving to the beholder. 



Facts One Should Know. 

Every woman desires not only an easily fitting garment, ])ut she 
wishes the points of beauty and grace of her figure displayed to 
advantage. 

Nearly every one can cut fi-oui a Mock pattern, with results that 
may be partially satisfactory ; if the garment be too long or t )o short 
waisted, alterations may be made, the lines of the waist may be changed ; 
but after exercising much ])atience, and s|)ending time in '' drawing 
in " and "' lettinii: out '" cloth, a skew or a twist is almost sure to be the 
result. 

All these annoyances may be avoided by taking measurements and 
drafting a pattern for each person, which with this system will insure a 
perfect fit; but in taking measurements, it should be understood that 
they must be positively accurate. 

Before cutting, one should have a definite idea of the style of gar- 
ment to be made : whether the front shall be plain or fancy, the waist 
long or short. The style of sleeves, collar and skirt nuist be considered ; 
in fact, one should be able to fashion the garment in imagination before 
the work is started. 

The style of person should l»e taken into consideration: a slight 
figure does not look well in a severely plain di-ess. while puffs and 
ruilles are not appropriate for a stout person. A small person may 
wear light colors, plaids and figured goods to advantage, while plain 

15 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND MAKING 



goods and stripes tend to render a stout figure more genteel. Dark 
colors are especially suitable for large figures. Bright colors will more 
quickly reveal any defect in fit or figure. Goods with a luster, like 
satin, cause a person to look larger, than those with a dull surface. 

These sug^o-estions should be borne in mind in the selection of goods. 
Measure the goods, to see if the quantity meets the requirements of the 
design. 

Fit the dress over the corset worn wheu the measurements were 
taken (if possible), and have the corset adjusted as it will be worn after 
the dress is fitted. 

Note. — The Harriet A. Brown System is patented; infringe- 
ments on its patents are forbidden under penalty of law. 



TriE ClIflRT. 



This book, it is needless to say, is founded on the chart of the 
Harriet A. Brown System. The first requisite is of course to obtain 
this chart. 

At one time any system expressed by a chart was considered of 
little value ; but since the appearance of this chart, that opinion has 
been reversed. At an early period the Harriet A. Brown System itself 
required the use of a square and a rule with mathematical scales. This 
form of the system gave very good satisfaction mitil it was superseded 
by the chart, which will more than meet the reqidrements of a square or 
rule with mathematical problems. These are hard to learn and apply. 
The square is well enough in the hands of a tailor, and with his experi- 
ence answers his pur])ose. 

The success that has for ten years attended this revised form of 
the system has been to many practical dressmakers a surprise. All 
prejudice against the chart has Ijeen overcome by the actual work done 
by the one now in use. The chart is made of leather pressboard, very 
durable. It is in seven pieces : back, side-form, under-arm piece, dart, 
sleeve-top, straight edge ; it can be easily rolled up, and as easily carried 

16 



THE CHART 



as a music-roll ; it weighs but ten ounces. It is in every respect more 
convenient than any of the contrivances requiring the awkward square 
or other clumsy machinery. 

It is difficult to fairly judge of any system by its picture; it is much 
easier to understand the merits of the drafts which are made by the 
use of the system. Such pictured drafts, in connection with full in- 
struction to make them, will be found elsewhere in this volume. 

This is not a complicated system, or dithcult to learn. The improve- 
ments have been mainly in the line of simplification. Those who be- 
came acquainted with the S({uare had souie reason to complain of its 
complexity. 

The claim made for this system in its present form is that work can 
be done more quickly and accurately than by any other system. 

1. It was the first to put in practice the principles that on perfect 
measurement and accurate basting, depend a ^^erfect fit. 

2. It v,as the first system to require careful basting and pressino-. 

3. It never gives fullness around the arm-seye and top of darts. 

4. It was the first system to teach cross-bias and seamless waists. 

5. It was the first system requiring two under-ai'm jneces for stout 
forms. 

6. It is the only system ada])ted to class-work. 

7. It is the only system by which a draft can be made in five 
minutes by a practiced hand. 

This system is for sale exduswely at the Haeriet A. Beowx Dress 
Makixg and Cutting College, 149a Tremont Street, Boston, Mass. 
It can be sent to any address on order. 

Lessons by Mail. 
I have many applications from parties at a distance who desire to 
become good fitters and have the best system, and have naturally decided 
to adopt the Harriet A. Brown System, who yet find it impossible to 
attend any place where it is taught. To such the way to success is open 
through the mail. 

The system is so simple it can be easily comprehended, and h\ fol- 
lowing directions laid down in this book, success is sure. 

It is an advantage of course to learn of some competent teacher when 

17 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND MAKING 



one does not uDclerstand dressmaking ; hut many are prosperous dress- 
makers who have taken up the system hy mail, and have gained com- 
plete knowledge of it by corresponding with the inventor and patentee. 
The price of system is $5.00. The public mail is excellent, its service 
being swift and sure. 

Patterns Drafted. 

Patterns of waists, coats, skirts, sleeves, shirtwaists and bishop 
sleeves drafted and sent by mail. 



Course of Instruction. 

A special, course is given at some of the institutions for the benefit 
of those who, being already familiar with the details of dressmaking, 
wish to learn the system only. 

To those who wish to study the dressmaking from the beginning at 
an industrial institution, we give the following course of study, which 
has been taught at the college in Boston : 

Method of threading needle, making knot and using thimble. 

Position of body while sewing. 

Basting and running. 

Stitching, back-stitching, combination stitching and overcasting. 

Overhanding and matching stripes. 

Hemming, felling. 

French hemming on damask. 

Gathering, putting on bands, putting in gussets. 

Button-holes, sewing on buttons. 

Eyelets, sewing on tapes. 

Herringbone stitch on flannel. 

Hemstitching, whipping ruffle. 

Patching, cashmere darning. 

Weaving, stockinet darning. 

Uniting of corners, chain stitching, feather stitching. 

Slip stitching and blind stitching. 

Talks on the manufacture of cloth, and the articles used. 

Choice of material. 

18 



COURSE OF INSTRUCTION 



Taking measures. 

Machine stitching. 

D ra f ti ii g drawe rs . 

Talks on embroidery. 

Drafting, cutting, basting and making skirt. 

Cutting, fitting and making under-waist. 

Instruction in the use of })atterns. 

Advance machine work. 

Cutting, litting and making night-dress. 

Drafting, litting and making a dress without a lining. 

Cutting and Fitting. 
Drafting plain waist. 

Drafting waist with two under-arm pieces. 
Draftinii' waist with one dart. 
Cutting lining and material. 
Basting lining and material together and fitting same. 



Some of the Institutions in which this System is Taught. 

Mechanics' Institute, Rochester, N. Y. 

Drexel Institute, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Winthrop Industrial College, Rock Hill, S. C. 

Young Women's Christian iVssociation, Newark, N. J. 

Normal School, Providence, R. I. 

Wimodaughsis Club, Washington, D. C. 

Industrial School, Jacksonville, Fla. 

Benedict College, Columbia, S. C. 

Industrial School, Louisville, Ky. 

Catholic Women's Christian Association, Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Women's Educational and Industrial Union, Buffalo, N. Y. 

Samuel Ready School, Baltunore, Md. 

Industrial School, Newport, R. I. 

State Normal School, Baltimore, Md. 

Industrial School for Girls, Middletown, Conn. 

Thayer Home, Atlanta. Ga. 

Business College, Plymouth, Mass. 

State College, Orangeburg, S. C. 

Eckstein Norton University, Cane Spring, Ky. 

Young Women's Christian Association, New^ark, N. J. 

Storrs Agricultural College, Eagleville, Conn. 

19 



DIRECTIONS FOR USE 



OF THE 



HARRIET A. EROWN SYSTEM, 



To Take Measures for Waist* 



(See blank for Registry of Waist, p. 23.) 

Bust. — Standing at the back of the person, measure over the fullest 
part of the bust, drawing the tape together at the back about eight 
inches from the top of the spinal collar-bone. 

Length of Back. — Place the tape at the top of collar-bone ; measure 
down full leno'th. 

o 

Sida Seam. — Place the tape where the arm drops at arm-seye ; drop 
the tape line, slanting a trifle toward the back to waist-line. 

Under-arm. — Place the tape well under the arm, extend to waist-line. 

Width of Back. — Measure between the shoulders straight across 
about five inches down from neck-ljone. 

Waist Pleasure. — Measure tight as tape can be drawn around the 
waist. 

Point. — Phice the tape in hollow of the throat; carry tape to length 
of point down below the waist-line. 

To Draft a Waist. 

(See diagram of Back, Side-form and Underarm on next page.) 

Back of Waist. — Place the back marked "A" on paper. Dot in 
holes top and bottom of back arm-seye where one-half width of back 
reaches. Tlien follow up and mark in bust measure for width of back 
neck. Draw around neck. Then draw down to whatever length of 
back waist is taken. Extend to Ijottom. With chart draw shoulder. 
Then place the hole on chart at bottom of waist, and draw up to back 
arm-seye. Then draw down to bottom. 

Side-form B. — Place Side-form B on paper. Draw line down 
where it is marked side seam to waist-line. Dot in whatever waist 
measure, then go up where it says bust measure. Dot in bust meas- 
ure. Draw line from bust dot to waist dot. See that you have your 

21 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND flAKINQ 




Back, Side=forni and Under^'arm Draft. 

length of side-seam measure. Then measure curve on back and side- 
form curve, which must be the same. Place waist-Hne at waist dotr ; 
extend to bottom. 

Under-arm Piece. — Place under-arm piece on paper. Dot in waist 
measure. Dot at top lines where you see the bust measure. Draw 
around arm-seye down to waist-line. Draw with outside side-form 
to dot at bust from waist dot. Both side seams must measure the same 
as taken on person, also under-arm seam. 

22 



HEASURES FOR WAIST 




For Registry of Waist 
Measures. 

Bust 

Length Back Waist 

Around Waist 

Width Back 

Side Seam 

Under Arm 

Pohit 

Arm-seve 



Front. 
Draw line for hem down on the paper. See X at top of straight 
line on form. Place that X on straight line of papei" you have marked 
for hem. Dot in hole for neck. 

Then place hole at waist-line on the same line. Now go hack to 
where the lines cross the shoulder. They are the bust measiu-es. Fol- 
low down around the arm-seye to the bust measure, then stop. 

(Dot in holes.) 

23 



Then go down to where it says dart-lines. 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND MAKING 



Then go down to waist-line, dot in holes for bottom of darts. 

Before taking up the lV)rm dot at bottom of basque at straight lines. 

Then go Ijack and draw shoulder, from neck to last dot. 

Then go down round to bust measure, dot at arm-seye with bottom of 
form, draw waist-line to waist measure under arm. 

You now have the dots made on waist-line and on dart-line. With 
dart-form draw dots to waist-line. 

Extend dart-lines to dots on bottom of basque. Straight lines. 

With the tape measure go through the waist-lines of the pieces 
drafted. 

Then through the front, skipping over darts and space between 
darts, to whatever the waist measures. 

Draw straio'ht or curved lines to waist-line. Place waist-line on 
chart at waist-line. Draw for swell to dot at neck. 

Tracing out Lining. 

After completing and proving the pattern, proceed to the tracing 
of lining. Instead of placing the pattern straight on the lining at front, 
incline it in at waist-line two inches, slanting from the top. 

This is only for tailor waists ; other patterns must be laid on the 
straight line of lining. Allow one-half inch for seams. Be sure you 
trace on the lines accurately. 

For tailor waists trace a line two inches above waist-line, also below. 
This is for fullness in lining. In cutting linings for loose outside, baste 
back side-form onto the back and baste up the back seam. After 
stitching the three seams turn the edges of each seam in and stitch 
down, leaving; it wide enouuh to run a steel or whalebone in. Feather- 
bone may be stitched on, and is a much neater way of finishing seams 
than to pink them ; or seams may be Ijound, if one prefers. 

Stitch darts of lining, cut open, and prepare the same. Turn edges 
in and stitch the same. There is more firmness to linings prepared in 
the above way. 

To Baste Lining on Outside. 
Always baste with lining up. 
Place the outside and lining together. 

24 



riEASURES FOR WAI5T 



Begin to baste from the front of waist on waist-line ; baste across 
until you get to the back dart, then push the lining in a little fuller 
than outside, to under-arni seam. 

Push the lining down sHghtly to waist-line. 

Baste on line that is traced two inches above waist-line from front to 
back dart, then push the linhig in again, basting quite fine on the cross- 
bias to seam under arm. 

Push the lining slightly up to waist-line, then baste third line two 
inches below waist-line same way. 

Baste up through space of darts, then push a little fullness down 
from shoulder seam, and continue basting to top of shoulder. 

Baste around darts. Baste in the front tracing. Do not turn the 
front in. 

Baste to within one-half inch of tracings around neck, across shoul- 
der, down sides, pushing a little fullness in on the cross-bias. 

Then baste around arm-seye quite hue one-half inch in ; this to 
remain until waist is finished, to prevent arm-seye from stretching. 

The Under-arm Piece. — Baste in the waist-line, then push fullness 
in a little. Baste lines above and Ijelow waist-line. Then baste to 
within one-half inch of tracing, as seen in cut, pushing lining in a little 
full. 

The Side-form. — Baste in waist-line, pushing in a little fullness. 
Baste the two lines al)ove and below waist-line, pushing in fullness. 
Then baste to within one-half inch of tracing, Ijoth sides, pushing in 
a little fullness of lining ; this wdll prevent wrinkles around waist. 

The Back Piece. — Baste waist-line, the one above and below, hold- 
ing in fullness as I)efore directed, back to within one-half inch of 
tracing, inclining the lining loosely in through the back. 

Basting Waist Together. 

Now tlie outside is basted on, you will proceed to baste them to- 
gether. Never attempt to Ijaste darts before they are cut open to with- 
in one-half inch of the top. IJegin at top of darts and baste down, 
reo-ardless of the waist-lines ; hold the bias side of back dart tig^ht for 
one inch down. This prevents fullness at top of darts in a tailor waist. 

25 



SCIENTIFIC DRES5 CUTTING AND flAKINQ 



Pat waist-lines together in tracings, then baste to top of the trac- 
ing, holding the seams tight and firm. Then baste down over the hips. 

The rounding curve is a very important seam. From the waist-line 
up to where it begins to curve, hold very tight. Place tracings together 
at arm-seye, then the fullness will come in across the shoulders, which 
gives more ease and is more comfortable ; the under-arm piece to be 
basted the same. 

To Baste Shoulders Together. — The front of shoulder seam will be 
shorter than the back. Stretch the front very hard so it will be very 
tight, and the back seam will come in quite full. You now have the 
waist ready to try on; but before trying on notch all seams at waist-line. 
The arm-seye should never be pared ; you must see that it looks large 
enough before trying. Snip and stretch the arm-seye ; then if it looks 
small let it out at the under-arm seam a little, also a little at top of 
shoulder. 

A waist is ruined when you begin to pare out the arm-sej'e; it 
causes tightness across the bust. 

Fitting the Waist On. 

After the waist has been fitted on the person, you will then see 
where it has been pinned up. You then turn the front of waist for the 
hooks and eyes. If the lining is finished separate, turn in and stitch 
for steel or bone, to be run in before hooks and eyes are put on. Fold 
the waist together wrong side out, and pin together the following points: 
waist-line entirely across ; top of darts together, and lines of arm-seye, 
to prevent slipping while slia})ing the bottom ; trim one side by the 
other. The side already trimmed is here supposed to have been shaped 
when fitted. 

Trimming and Clipping. — Seams exactly even at waist-line and two 
inches above. Round each point uniformly. You are now ready to 
bind the seams. 

Stitching Waist. 

Hold seams very tight through the machine. Darts must be stitched 
from top and very pointed, leaving ends of silk to tie. Have loose ten- 

26 



riEASURES FOR WAIST 



sion on the machine, so the stitcliino- will not draw and eause the waist 
to wrinkle. Be snre and not go inside of the stitching at arni-seje. but 
a few stitches outside. 

This one small item is of great importance, and will save your par- 
ing out the arm-seye. 

You will proceed to the next important work of Pressixg Seams. 
Before you begin to press the seams see they are cut in neatly at waist- 
line, also two inches above the waist-line ; this is done so that the waist 
is more easily pressed and fits better. A great deal depends on tlie 
pressing of a waist. When the goods will admit, wet the seams and 
press very hard. Great care must be used in pressing the darts of a 
tailor waist. Before pressing the darts cut them open as far as will 
admit, then wet a little all around top of lining outside of the dart, 
also in the dart. Then move the iron very softly until you get above 
tlie dart, then press down hard on the goods. Never move the iron so 
as to stretch the dart at top. This way of pressing will avoid poking 
out at top of the Ijack dart, which is so often noticed on tailor waists. 

When you try a waist on, be sure you get it well on and into the 
form before pinning the front. Begin at top to i)in the waist, then 
work it into the form. You will often be ol)liged to lift the waist up to 
get the waist-line where it belongs. A waist should be put on as care- 
fully as a glove is fitted on the hand. A great deal depends on the first 
trying on. Then shape the bottom of waist. 

Binding Seams. 
To make a neat-looking waist, select binding and bone casing to 
harmonize with the liiiing. Neatlv trimmed and bound waists are as 
desirable as artistic designing. In Bixding Seams, fold the binding over 
the edcre of seam and run neatlv, holding l)inding a little full. If verv 
thick goods, they may be overcast. It takes much longer to overcast 
well than to bind seams. 

Finishing Bottom. 
The waist being shaped the proper length, cut a bias strip of canvas 
three-fourths of an inch wide ; baste on the bottom, then outside over 
the canvas, and cross-stitch down to lining. 

27 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND HAKING 



To Bone a Waist. 

Many dressmakers will still continue to use whalebone, but feather- 
bone is largely taking its place. 

In using bone casing, begin at top. Sew both sides of casing on a 
little full, leaving one-half inch loop at top to run the bone in ; bring 
casing down over the canvas at bottom to within one-quarter inch from 
bottom, and fasten at bottom. Steels may be run in these casings if one 

wishes. 

Bones put in this way will never poke through. Great care must 
be used to keep the bottom of waist evenly trimmed. 

When bones are used, they should be soaked one-half hour in hot 
water. Put tliem in while warm. 

SHp the bone through the loop at top of casing ; spring the bone in 
as tight as possible. Sew through at top, then two inches above waist- 
line and at bottom on the canvas. Be sure to sew each side of bone, so 
it will stay in place. So much depends upon a well-boned waist that its 
importance should )^e realized in finishing a waist. Silk facing cut on 
the bias is better for the l)ottom of a waist, and when well put on gives 
a very neat finish. Hold the facing quite tight in basting on. 

DIAGRAM OF SLEEVE. 




^M^^ ,^/^4^ 



:i.s 



HEASURES FOR WAIST 



Measures for Sleeve. 

Place tape at top of shoulder hone, measui'e to elbow. Then down 
to full length to hone at wrist. 

Plaee tape close np under arm, then measure round arm. 

Measure round elhow over hone. 

Place thumb in center of hand, measure round hand. 

To Draft Sleeve. 

Draw line 2 inches in from edge of })aper. Place measure at top of 
paper and mark at 1, 8, G ; draw lines out from each dot. 

Measure length to elbow, from No. 1 line. Then down full lenccth 
of sleeve. Draw straight Hue from elbow. Measure in from length of 
sleeve 4 inches ; from that dot measure in 2 3 inches and dot. 

Measure in from elbow 2 3 inches. Measure in on No. 3 line 4 
inches. DraAv line from elbow dot to 4 inches in, to length of sleeve. 

Draw line from 2 A inches at ell)ow down to dot at length of sleeve. 
Draw line from 2h inches at elbow up to 4 inches to line 3. 

To get measure roimd top of arm. Place whatever the measure 
may be on No. 6 line, bring the otlier end of tape over on inside line. 
Make a dot at double ends of tape ; same at elbow and hand. Draw 
lines from those dots. 

See X on curve. Place that at line where you see 3 and marked, 
draw down round to No. 6 line, for top of sleeve. For under of sleeve, 
place X at No. 6 line and draw round to where you see 4. 

After sleeve is drafted add 1 inch on back of sleeve at No. 3 line 
and draw halfway do^vn to elbow. 

How to Cut and Baste a Sleeve. 

Lay the elljow on straight of goods, upper and under ; cut them out. 
Baste the outside on the lining. Begin to pin the sleeve from the 
tracings at waist, inside seam. Then lav the sleeve on a table, beiriu. 
at bottom and pin nearlj^ to the ell)ow. Then Ijring the top o\er 011 
the under part and pin. Do not try to put tracings together at top- 
they invariably come together. 

29 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND HAKINQ 



After you have pinned the sleeve together hold it up to see if it 
liangs right and smooth. The fullness will come in where it belongs at 
elbow. 

Basting Sleeves in the Garment. 

Sleeves are of great importance, and no one can be successful who 
does not understand the science of cutting and basting them. 

A great deal depends on basting sleeves in a garment. To Ijaste a 
sleeve in a garment you first place the under-arm seam of sleeve two 
inches from the under-arm seam of waist. You then begin to pin it 
into the garment, keeping the sleeve quite loose. Where there is no 
fullness keep it quite loose until you get up to where the fullness 
begins. 

There can be no rule for the outside seam of sleeve ; about down to 
the seam of back side-form or a little lower does not matter. After the 
sleeve is pinned in hold the waist up ; you can easily tell if it looks 
right. 

Double Draft for Stout Figures. 
Number of inches to be put into the side-form at waist-line for the 



stout form. 




For 


28 




29 




30 




31 




32 




33 




34 




35 



21 


inches 


21 


a 


2h 


(( 


2h 


a 


2A 


it 


21 


a 


3 


a 


3 


u 



For stout figures draft back same as for other drafts. Then draft 
side-form to waistrline, mark in on waist-hue 2h inches as given for 30 
waist measure on scale above, then finish same as other drafts. 

Draft the front according to the measures, adding the French bias. 
Then measure out from last dart 4 inches to under-arm seam. Stouter 
forms require more. 

30 



THE CHILD'S DRAFT 



Now measure the back and side-form and front through waist-lines, 
skipping over the darts, out to where the 4 inches is marked. If the 
waist is 30 it will come out to 10 inches. 

For JJnst. — (See bust-lines on Chart.) Measure through the back 
and side-form on bust-line ; then through tlie front on bust-line. If 
the bust is 42 inches (for instance) it will measure out to about 17 
inches. From that measure out to one-half of the bust (21 inches) ; 
if jou have 4 inches you will have 2 inches to put in at the top of 
each piece, and 2 A at the bottom of each piece. 

Then proceed to draft the two pieces. For the first piece draw 
straight line down, and sf|uare across at bottom; then measure out 21 
inches ; at top, 2 inches. Draw line to top a quarter inch longer than 
under-arm seam ; draw arm-seye with under-arm piece curve ; finish 
bottom. 

You will now draw the next piece with the under-arm piece. First 
draw round arm-seye down to waist-line. Then mark in 2h inches at 
bottom and 2 at top. Then measure down and get length of side seam, 
then measure 81 on next line. Now with under-arm piece place it at 
dot 2h inches, then extend past the top dot to arm-seye. 

Then you will measure down from top to whatever side seam 
measures. Draw waist-line ; finish bottom. 



THE CTIILD'S DRAFT, 

Measures to be taken for cJiUdreu. 
Bust. 

Length of back (be sure you do not take it too long). 
Width of back. 
Around the waist. 
Point (from collar-bone). 
Under arm. 
Sleeve : 

To elbow. 
Full length. 

31 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND HAKINQ 



Around top of arm. 

Around elbow. 

Bottom o'iven in draftino-. 

The child's draft is outlined on the chart to easily guide a pupil 
who has become famihar with the regular draft. It is not necessary 
to minutely describe this draft ; the following general directions will 
suffice. 
For the Back : 

Place the back of the chart on the paper as usual. 

Dot at length of back ; dot at neck in the bust for the neck width ; 
dot in holes for the width of back. From center of back at waist-line 
mark in 1^ inches. Draw the shoulder-line and around back arm-seye. 

On the side-form find the waist measure, and place it on the dot you 
made Ih inches from center of back, and mark width of side-form at 
waist-line. 

Find bust measure at top of side-form, and place it at the end of the 
back arm-seye line. Draw the arm-seye to side seam edge of chart. 

Place the under-arm piece ou, and dot same as with side-form. 

The back, side-form and under-arra piece are now drafted together. 
[It will be observed that this is similar to the shirtwaist draft.] 

Get measure for under arm and draw the line and the waist-line. 

Always raise the shoulder one-half inch at outer end and draw line 
to point at neck. 
For the Front : 

Draw a straight line, and on it place the front of the chart. 

Mark around neck, in bust measures at each end of shoulder, down 
around arm-seye and in the Inist measure. Mark in hole at point at 
waist-line where it says '' Child's Draft." With chart draw shoulder-line 
and down around arm-seye. Get length of under arm and draw waist- 
line. 

For the darts, dot in from front on waist-line 2 inches or less, 
according to the waist measure. Allovr 1 inch for first dart, then space 
off I of an inch, then 1 inch for next dart. Measure up from center of 
each dart 4 3 inches for heio-ht of dart. Then draw darts with dartr 
piece, moving dart-piece up so darts will be quite straight. 



THE SEAHLESS SHOULDER 



Now go through all of the pieces, backs first then front, skipping 
the darts and measuring space between them, and go out to whatever 
the waist measures. Then draw under-arm seam. 

Note. — Many people put one dart in a child's waist, but two are 
much better; after a girl is ten years old she reciuires the surplus space 
to admit of growth. Outsides are put on to suit the taste. 



Uhc Seamless Sboulbet. 

With the seamless shoulders the waist may be drafted with or with- 
out darts. 




For a stout figure darts are preferable, also one or two under-arm 
pieces, depending on the size of the waist. 

A stout figure looks much smaller with a waist cut in this way. 

To THE Public : I desire to say that Harriet A. Brown of the 
Boston Dress Cutting College, 149a Tremont Street, Boston, is the first 
to invent a system of dress cutting whereby waists may be cut with no 
seams on the shoulders, and protected by United States Letters Patent, 
No. 392,493, bearing date Nov. 6, 1888. There are many persons 
attempting to impose upon the public by claiming the seamless shoulder, 
but Harriet A. Brown is the original inventor, and the only person by 
law authorized to cut and make a seamless shoulder. Any person so 
doing will be prosecuted as infringers according to law in such cases 
provided. F. G. Hutchinson, 

Attorney for Harriet A. Broic7i. 
3.3 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND HAKINQ 



The Skirt. 




THE SKIRT 

This cut represents a seven-gore skirt, which is a practical skirt. 
The use of the following table will assist in the drafting of the pattern. 

Table, 
for 24-inch waist measure, and 08-inch hip measure. 



HALF FRONT. 


FIRST GORE. 


SECOND GORE. 


BACK GORE. 


Top. 


Bottom. 


Top. 


Bottom. 


Top. 


Bottom. 


Top. 


Bottom. 


V. in. 


12 in. 


3 in. 


17 in. 


3 in. 


16 in. 


8.\ in. 


30 in. 



The plait in the back must not take in the next to the back seam. 

After the seven-gore skirt has been drafted by the use of the above 
table, it will be found an easy matter to form a table and draft a pat- 
tern for any style of skirt, after taking correct measurements. 

The Measures Taken for a Skirt: 
Around the waist. 
Around the hip (5 inches down). 
Length of the front. 
Length over the hip. 
Length of the back. 

Directions for Drafting Seven-gore Skirt With or Without Flare. 

From straight edge of paper mark in 4 inches at top, mark down 1 
inch from center of front and slope to the 4 inches. Measure down 5 
inches for hip. Slope to top, taking off one-half inch at waist, where 
it measures 4 inches out. 

Measure in 11 inches at bottom and draw line to hip, making a good 
curve ; from line at bottom take off 1 inch and cm've to center of front. 

For flare skirt, mark up from bottom 14 inches, then from 14 inches 
mark in across 7 inches, then curve from bottom up to 7 inches, then 
to the hip ; this comprises the front. 

For the next two gores measure for the length. Then measure in 
Ah inches at top and o down for hip. Then measure in 6 5 inches for 

35 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND HAKINQ 



hip. Slope off to 85 on both sides at top. Measure in at bottom 15 
inches, draw line np from bottom 14 inches and 7 inches across ; 
leave oh inches each side, and slope from bottom np; then curve to the 
hip, giving a good slope. Refer to cuts in shaping the pieces. 

For Back of Skirt: — If for one inverted plait, measure in for one-half 
10 inches at top ; at bottom for one-half, 28 inches. Then draw line to 
top. Then curve out from bottom if you wish it to flare. The hip 
measure must extend to 4 inches on the back, where you see dotted 
line on cut. Leave all the fullness from the 4 inches, as your hip meas- 
ure comes to those dots, which is supposed to be the center of back. 

The front is drafted as for a waist, except that only one dart is used. 

To make the dart, measure in on the waist-line 2j to 3 inches from 
the front, and make a dot. Measure in 2 inches further and make 
another dot. From the middle of the space between these dots, meas- 
ure straight up 5 inches and make a dot. By these three dots draw 
the dart. 

There should be 4 inches l)etween the dart and the nnder-arm seam. 

The back of the chart is used for the curve of the front. 

To Put the Canvas hi a Coat : 

Shape the coat before basting in the canvas. 

The canvas must be cut the same as the front ; the shape you will 
see indicated by dots in the cut. 

Cut the darts open after pressing the canvas. Shrink the canvas 
into shape. 

Cut open the dart of the outside and press it. 

For the Eton Jacket. 

Draft back and side-form together. 
A seam in the center of the back procures a better fit. 
The under-arm piece is drafted separately. 

Secure the dart of the canvas and that of the outside firmly- 
together. Then baste the canvas in smoothly. 
Be sure to leave enough goods on the front. 

36 



DRAFT FOR SHIRTWAIST 



TO DRAFT A SHIRTWAIST. 

Jleaiiin'es. 

Bust (always larger than for Point, 

a waist). Neck. 

Length of back waist (shorter Around top of arm. 

than for a Maist). Around elbow. 

Width of back. Inside seam of sleeve. 

Under arm. Arm-seye. 

Around waist. 

For Back : 

Phice back of chart on straight edge of paper. 

Draw around back neck from bust measure ; dot for width of back, 
top and bottom where you see '"widths of backs"; draw shoulder-Une, 
and around l)ack arm-seye with outside of chart. Dot for length of 
back waist measure. 

Now on back side-form (ind hole for waist measure, and place it 
over dot where lengtli of back comes, and at waist line of back side- 
form make a dot. Then on back side-form find bust measure at top, 
place it at lower end of back arm-seye line, and continue that line to 
"side seam " edge of chart. 

Place under-arm piece on, and dot bottom and top in same way as 
with back side-form. Add one inch at waist-line and measure down 
for length of under-arm seam ; then draw line which finishes the back. 

Raise top of shoulder one-half inch for shirtwaists and draw line 
to neck dot. 

For Front : 

Mark in four inches at top and at bottom of paper, and draw a 
straiglit line. 

Place front of chart on line and proceed to draft same as for other 
waists : around neck, in bust measures at neck and at bottom of shoul- 
der, then down around arm-seye in bust measures. 

Draw shoulder (a little longer than for a waist) and arm-seye. 

Get length of under-arm seam ; measure straight down from bust, 
then go in one inch, which will give the correct point for bottom of 
under-arm seam. Get length of point, and dra^v waist-line. 

For Bishop Sleeve: 

Fold paper wide enough for width of sleeve. 

37 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND HAKINQ 



Place rule at top of paper and mark on edge of fold at 1, 3, 6. Draw 
straight lines same as for other sleeves. 

From No. 1 line get length to elbow, and make a dot ; extend down 
to full length of sleeve, making length less for the band. 

On No. 3 line mark in three inches. 

On No. 6 line get size of arm from measure already taken. 

Mark for size of elbow as taken. 

Mark for size at bottom, allowing about five inches for the proper 
fullness for cutf . 

Draw the inside line of sleeve. Apply inside measure of sleeve 
before finishing bottom. Draw a curve from outside to seam. 

Finish top of sleeve by placing sleeve-top at dot for size of arm on 
No. 6 line and extending round to fold of paper. Draw curve for 
inside sleeve by placing X on the curve-piece at dot on No. 3 line and 
drawing to seam. Turn cinn'e over and connect at top of outside line. 

Cut out inside curve of sleeve. 



Pressboard for Skirts, Waists and Sleeves. 




The first pressboard was placed before the public by Harriet A. 
Brown. Many similar boards are now in use, but not as practical. 
Sent C. 0. D. $1.00. 

38 



DRAFT FOR COAT 



Draft for Coat, 




Measures Taken for a Coat : 

Same as for waist, except that the length of back waist must be 
taken one-half inch shorter, and the bust measure one inch larger for 
outside garments than for waists. 

We give only the front of the coat draft, as the other pieces are 
drafted same as for a waist. 

39 



GEllEl{flkITIES. 

Pertaining More or Less to Dressmakino;. 



Basting an Art in Itself. 




The cut shows the Hues of basting in a tailor waist. 

Notice the French bias, first placed before the public with the Harriet 
A. Brown System. It is used only in the tailor waist and prevents all 
Avrinkles in woolen goods and silks. 

Many dressmakers do not realize the importance of minute pains- 
taking in basting. They imagine that they save time by slighting this 
stage of the shaping of a dress. They regard with indifference the 
requirement of what they call '' a few puckers in the lining " ; they 
thoughtlessly assume that without such pains they can make a dress fit 
just as well to all the curves of the form. 

It was Harriet A. Brown's contribution to the dressmaking science 
to raise basting to an art in itself. She invented the method of fulHng 

41 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND HAKINQ 



the lining that belongs to her system. It is not, as some seem to think, 
simply " a lot of tiny wrinkles or a few puckers." It is, instead, a 
scientific fulling of the lining. The method has been taught to Mrs. 
Brown's pupils for almost a (quarter of a century; it is now used and 
highly esteemed by many of the best practical dressmakers of America. 

This improvement in dressmaking is distinctively American. The 
French dressmakers confessedly excel in finely fitting dresses, but how 
do they do it ? 

They put into the work such an amount of time and exj^ense as the 
average American could not endure. 

They begin with a very rough ht, and pull the cloth and crowd the 
flesh where the waist does not fit. They will take up darts or do any- 
thing to get rid of the surplus cloth. 

The lining is then basted and tried on, and the same process passed 
through again. It is not an uncommon thing for the best Parisian 
dressmakers to rip the shoulders apart several times and take off the 
back and front in order to secure a good fit. 

It may be conceded that after the dress has been tried on from six 
to ten times, it is when finished an excellent fit. No doubt the French 
dressmakers do deserve their reputation for the fine fitting of expen- 
sive dresses. But the average American is too impatient and too eco- 
nomical to be content with such a slow and expensive method. 

By the Harriet A. Brown System equally good results can be secured 
at a fraction of the expense incurred by the famous Parisian dress- 
makers. The appeal here is to actual results. I am willing to compare 
the fit of a garment cut and basted by my sj'stem with the best fit of 
the best dressmakers of Paris. The immense advantage of my system is 
that it does not require exceptional skill to use it after it has been once 
thoroughly learned. Moreover, by being more rapid and economical, 
it is better adapted to our American spirit. 

It may be noted also that it is a waste of time and material to 
attempt to baste from any of the patterns sold by certain fashion-books. 
These may in certain cases be cheaper than a good system, but they 
are rarely perfectly satisfactory, and are not to be relied on. It is econ- 
omy in the end to get and use the best. 

42 



THE HAN DRESSHAKER 



It must be borne iu mind that all measurements must be absolutely 
accurate ; also, that the art of basting must be thoroughly learned. No 
success can be hoped for in the use of this system, when pains are not 
taken in all parts of the work. Do not guess at anything. Be sure at 
every step. 

\Yhile this s\'stem is, by reason of its simplicity, a great time-saver 
to one who uses it fairly, haste in its use, es[)ecially in the beginning, 
will l)e a great time-waster. 

Be careful in the so-called trifles ; it is by careful attention to the 
trifles that general excellence is gained. 



The Man Dressmaker 

There is generally thought to l)e a distinctiveness, " an indefinable 
something," in the appearance of a garment made by a masculine dress- 
maker, that any discerning eye can detect. The fit, the symmetry, the 
make-up, impress the beholder as proof of superior workmanship. 

Wliy is it ? Is it in the material ? Not in that alone. Is it in the 
cutting, or the basting, or the making ? Not entirely. What, then, can 
be the reason ? 

Our answer may not be that of the man dressmaker himself ; but 
the reason seems to us to l)e that in the man-made garments, as a rule, 
is an unusual excellence in details ; in the attention given to what some 
women dressmakers regard as unimportant trifles. The garment is thus 
completely finished. In every part of it can l)e seen evidence of the 
deft touch of the artist hand. In every part the garment is complete 
and attractive. 

In this thorouo-hness men have been trained for o-enerations. When 
a gentleman desires a good garment, he employs an experienced tailor, 
who, by working according to exact rules, has little trouble in securing 
a good fit, and subjects his patron to but little annoyance in trying the 
garment on. In due time the tailor can, as he feels sure, deliver the 
garment to his customer perfectly fitted and finished. 

The same method of securing excellence is found to exist in the 

43 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND HAKING 



Harriet A. Brown System of Dress Cutting and Making. Men who, 
after thoroughly learning the tailoring business, have subsequently 
taken up dressmaking under this system, have found all their previously 
gained skill of no less account tlian in their former caUing. 

That men, in the long run, can do better work or show more artistic 
taste in dressmaking than women, we are not in haste to grant. 

But in all dressmaking, by whomsoever done, it must be the exact 
fitting, the making the most of the good points of every woman's own 
form, and by fine finishing, so that no suggestion of slight can be any- 
where seen, that a dress can be made entirely satisfactory in its comfort 
to the wearer and pleasure to the beholder. 



How Can I Become a Good Dressmaker? 

To the mass of dressmakers, and especially to those who are about 
to start in business, this question is of the deepest interest. Thousands 
of young women are filled with a desire to learn the art of cutting and 
fitting. A lack of this knowledge precludes the possibility of their 
reaching a high position in their profession. 

To be a good dressmaker requires study and work. There are of 
course born dressmakers, the same as people seem to be born for other 
professions, yet such natural genius in this hue is rare ; but any person 
of fair aptitude and good taste, we believe may become a good dress- 
maker and achieve success. 

It is next to impossible for a girl to go into any large dressmaking 
establishment and thoroughly learn the profession. In such a place she 
is kept on the simple parts of a dress ; she is not instructed in dress- 
making as a science and an art. She is rarely reminded of the outlines 
and curves of the form, to which a dress should be nicely adjusted. 
She is not practiced in the art of basting, one of the most essential 
things in first-class dressmaking. Such experience as one usually gams 
in a large dressmaking establishment will tend to unfit a girl for respon- 
sible practical work. 

A good way for a girl who has a bent toward dressmaking is to find 



44 



A GOOD DRESSHAKER 



a place with a dressmaker who, havinu^ a smaller business, can per- 
sonally oversee the details of the work done under her care. She can 
explain the numerous little tilings, the seemingly unim[)()rtant matters, 
on which successful dressmaking really depends. Such a one by per- 
sonal example will be likely to lead one into some comprehension of 
the general principles of the profession. 

Thorough knowledge of dressmaking can be gained only by paying its 
price. It will not be an ordinary girl to whom a dressmaker can afford 
to pay wages during her pupilage. A girl will be indeed reckoned 
'' smart " if she can at once be worth w^ages. Every valuable thing is 
worth its cost. Whatever one can get in this world for nothing, is good 
for nothing. A girl enteriug this profession should determine to be 
perfect, both in its completeness and in all its minutest details. In this 
endeavor lies the path to success. Pingat and Worth, once the great- 
est dressmakers in the world, were at the beginning of their careers as 
ignorant of the art as any girl now starting in the same profession. It 
was by appreciation of the little things, which in the aggregate are nec- 
essary to the highest excellence, that these men gained the knowledge 
which meant for them fame and fortune. 

Do not be deceived by false promises into experiments that will 
surely be expensive in the end. You will find some dealers in so-called 
systems promising to teach in their so-called schools the art of dress 
cutting and making in a few days. The promise might be as well that 
it could be done for you '' while you wait." This promise is, we fear, 
intended to deceive ; and the victims of such a false promise are sure 
to have at the end of their high-priced " school " term some worthless 
but dear-bought experience, and probably a " system " not worth the 
material of which it is made. 

The Harriet A. Brown System does not appeal to those who are 
not willing to pnt time and work into their profession. With time and 
industry, snccess, l)y the help of this system, has been won; on the same 
condition it may Ije won. A modiste publicly says : ''A successful 
dressmaker must be born with the instinct of her art within her ; she 
cannot be taught taste, fitness and common sense." This may be true ; 
yet any girl of common intelligence can certainly, through her own 

45 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND HAKINQ 



endeavor, become a much better dressmaker than she was born. Dress- 
makhig in its higher ranges is not done by " instinct " ; it requires 
patiently trained skill. 

This system appeals peculiarly to those who are asking : " How shall 
I become a good dressmaker ? " To those who are willing to study 
and persevere, with an ambition to gain the highest ranges of the pro- 
fession, this system has, in thousands of instances, i)roved itself to be a 
sure means of success. 



Food for Thought. 
[meditation of a friexd.] 

Why are there so many out of employment, and why are there so 
many whose hard labors accomplish nothing ? To answer this double 
question one need not gt) very deef>ly into ethics. The problem is still 
there, even when we set aside tliose who caunot be taught and those 
who refuse to be taught. The most superficial reasoner on being intro- 
duced to the bare facts of experience knows that the world never will 
o'ive him a chance unless he has somethino: of merit to sfive in exchanire ; 
and that something of merit is produced only in the peculiar cultiva- 
tion of his faculties. In a word, it is the one who has been taught to do 
Avell some special work, some work the world needs to have done, who 
can be assured of remunerative employment. 

The next question is how to get taught. With that answered, all 
the effort of the learner will be gathered to a focus, like the concen- 
tration of the sun's rays by a powerful glass. To carry the simile still 
farther, the System of Cutting and Making Dresses invented by Mrs. 
Harriet A. Brown does exactly this for the misdirected efforts of many 
thousands of women whose lives have seemed to promise nothing but 
hopeless drudgery. This teaching has not hitherto been available except 
in industrial schools ; but now that the progressive inventor has put her 
system into book form, with language plain and practical, any one by a 
little study can gain complete mastery of the subject. 

46 



WORTH, THE DRESSHAKER 



" God helps him who helps himself" means that those who grasp a 
helping" hand and pull, are the ones who get on their feet. Here is an 
opportunity to rise ; seize it while there is time. 



How to Keep a Good Figure. 

When you find that your waist measure is creeping up and that rolls 
of flesh are forming ahout the hips, don't draw in your corset-strings and 
tighten your helts, for that will make matters worse. 

Just keep your waist easy and comfortahle ; and at night when you 
can get into loose clothing put your hands flat on your sides and bend 
forward just as far as y(m can without toppling over upon your head. 
Do this slowly and for ahout twenty minutes Ijefore turning to the next 
movement, — that of bending as far l)a('k as possible. Then change the 
position of the arms ; simply fold them, and balance your body while 
you raise each foot as high as it will go. You will be surprised at the 
great imjn'ovement. Then you may take your bath and sleep well. 

In the morning change to this exercise : Keep the knees well back, 
and bend forward to touch the floor with the iinger-tips. Straighten 
the back, bend again slowly and easily, and repeat for about twenty 
times,. You will feel better all day for stretching the muscles. 

A man could lose his flesh and develop his muscles bv sawhif wood 
for a while each morning — doing it naturally and easilj'. So could a 
woman, if she cared to make the trial. 



Worth, the Dressmaker. 

Notwithstanding that Frederick AYorth's fame and fortune were 
gained in Paris, he was by birth an Englishman ; his birthplace being 
Bourn, Lincolnshire. While very young he was by his parents appren- 
ticed to a printing-office in his native village. He seems to have had 
no liking for the types ; and soon afterwards, when but fourteen years of 
age, he abandoned the printing luisiness and made his way to London. 

47 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND MAKING 



Here he found employment in a dry-goods establishment, in which 
he remained six years. 

It was while in the dry-goods store that he saw the possibihties of 
artistic dressmaking. He also learned, by observing the great fashion- 
currents, that Paris, the fountain of the polite world's fashions, was the 
appropriate place for a start in a line of dressmaking that would appeal 
to the favorites of fortune the world over. As preparation for the 
career he now only dimly foresaw but toward which he set his purpose, 
he spent his spare hours while a dry-goods clerk in learning the French 
language. 

At twenty years of age, being impatient to follow the star of his 
destiny, he separated from his London employers and went to Paris. 
He secured a partner in his proposed venture, but this partner did not 
have faith and perseverance to endure the day of small things, and 
soon withdrew from the partnership. 

It was in 1870, wdien Worth was but Httle more than twenty years 
old, that he, single-handed, entered on the fulfillment of his dream by 
starting out to be an artistic dressmaker whose renown would go over 
the civilized earth. His beginning was obscure ; but he kept his object 
ever before his eyes, and his courage was strong. 

After a few years his work Ijegan to be recognized. He succeeded 
in raising the dressmaking calling to the realm of art, and he was 
acknowledged as himself having the right to a place among the artists. 
Before his day those, and they were almost exclusively women, who 
had followed the dressmaking business had been content to humbly 
imitate royalty in fashion, and did not dare to vary the old way of 
pinching and pressing much-enduring woman into the prevailing regu- 
lation style. But Worth, by his audacity in exhibiting his thorough 
knowledge of women's dress as an art, and by varying dress to indi- 
vidual requirements, became the standard of fashion even for royalty 
itself. Although he was without the advantage of the best method, he 
gained an ample fortune, and achieved a fame that must have satisfied 
even his ambition. 

It is nevertheless remarkaljle tliat Worth, while he continued pinch- 
ing with whalebone woman's form, steadily adhered in private to the 

48 



WAITING FOR POSITIONS 



opinion that the (h-oss of the Turkish woman, with the full, flowing 
trousers and soft, loose jacket, was the most heautiful, comfortable and 
appropriate costume for the women of the world to wear. 



WHY m: IIKKSSMAKEKS WAITIMJ FOK FOSITIOSS ? 

It seems strange, at the first glance, that women who have been 
following dressmaking for years, and have gained the benefit of experi- 
ence, should find it difficult to secure good positions, or even any 
remunerative work. 

But in most instances where such is the case, it will Ije fairly 
charsfed to the foUv of these women in jdlowhig themselves to become 
settled in grooves, and thus keeping out of the way of the improved 
methods of work. They are superseded, simply because they do not 
keep up with the times. They persist in methods which were success- 
ful years ago; they are Ijlind, perhaps wilfully so, to the merits of any- 
thino; ditferinu- from their cherished ideas and habits. 

In dressmaking the question of success is quite apart from the ques- 
tion of age. An old dressmaker, as reckoned by years, may be young, 
and always keep young, in the desire for improvement. She will keep 
up with the latest methods in her profession. And who ever knew of 
such a one being a chronic waiter for work, or for a desirable position ? 

Ask of the next dressmaker you meet who has ))een long looking 
for a position : ''What system do you use?" Mark if this is not her 
reply: "Oh, I have no system; all I need for cutting are just a tape- 
measure and shears." 

That was a method years ago ; but it has gone l)y. In these days, 
when time is of account with patrons, that method has passed its useful- 
ness, and its possessor is not wanted. 

To become an expert with a first-class system will make seeking for 
a position needless. The best positions are always seeking those who 
are fully prepared to fill them. 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND HAKINQ 



FOREIGN DRESSMAKERS COMPARED WITH AMERICAN. 

Some years ago 1 had personal experience with the methods of some 
famous foreign dressmakers ; and I will detail my experience for the bene- 
fit of such as imagine that they must go abroad for becoming dresses. 

It may be, I am willing to concede, that there has been an advance 
made in dressmaking within the last few years across the water. There 
might indeed, 1 must think, be a very great advance made, and the 
advantage in practical dressmaking be still with Americans. 

When I found myself in Paris, to which city I had gone in the interest 
of my profession, I had leisure to test the world-famous dressmaking of 
that art-loving city. T began by ordering a finely pictured fashionable 
costume, at a cost of $125. The first fitting was the trying on of a lin- 
ing. The cutter began by pulling it up on the shoulders and cutting 
the arm-seyes, then pinning in all the seams. At the second fitting the 
outside was put on. Then the fitter began pinning the shoulders and 
taking in the lining, continuing until I could scarcely move. I made 
no complaint ; it was my wish to see with my own eyes how dressmak- 
ing; in the g-reat Parisian establishments was done. 

I went the third time to try on my waist. The seams were not 
then stitched, and the waist was so narrow across the bust that the 
litter at once took it oif, saying, " I will be l)ack in a few minutes." 
After a period she appeared, and again tried on the waist. It had 
not been improved ; I felt as if 1 were squeezed in a vise. She still 
kept cutting out the arm-seyes, which I knew was the worst thing she 
could do. She took oft'.the waist, saying, " It is all right." I looked at 
the shoulders, which measured not more than three inches ; this I knew 
to be wrong. She asked me to come again, to have the trimming 
adjusted to the waist. 

On troinff attain I found the hooks and eves had been sewed on : 
and I was compelled to hold my breath while she hooked it together. 
"This is not comfortable," I said. ''It will be all right," she again 
affirmed. It was not in my plan to remonstrate further. 

The fifth time I called there were still several alterations to be 
made. The sixth time the " finished " waist was ready ; and I put it 
on, and went with it to show it to the head of the department. 

50 



FOREIGN AND AMERICAN DRESSHAKERS 



I asked him : '' Are you satisfied to permit me to take this to the 
United States as an advertisement of Parisian fitting?" With the 
snavity of a genuine Frenchman, after elaborate apologies, he invited 
me to go into another room and be fitted by a different dressmaker. I 
did so; but I fonnd her scarcely an improvement on the other. As 
1 had advanced $50 on my contract, I did not think it advisable to 
refuse to take the dress. 

The second time I went to the head of the department I wore a 
dress made Ijy my own system. I told him that, notwithstanding all 
the tronble I had given him, my figure was not a hard one to fit. He 
examined my dress-waist with great interest, and said : '' T do not l)elieve 
jou can be fitted in Europe so well as you are with the waist you have 
on." He was very fair; after I had paid the agreed price, he gave me 
the waists which had been spoiled, and goods to replace the parts made 
valueless. The skirt came out very well ; it was wholh' embroidered, 
and easily cut and fitted. 

1 still keep these mementos of Parisian dressmaking ; I show them 
to such as may be curious in regard to '' three-inch shoulders." 

"Why do you cut such short shoulders?" 1 asked of the manager. 
" Only old people," he replied, " have long shoulders." It was very 
adroit. Would I admit, after that, that mv shoulders were lono-? But 
I did admit and affirm that my shoulders and bust were mismeasured, 
and I was made uncomfortable and unsiii-htlv Ijy such dress-fittino\ 

But I did not let that failure in P;n-is deter me from trying to find 
a fit in London. In the latter city I sought out a celebrated modiste, 
and began Ijy asking her if she could fit me with a waist like the one I 
had on, telling her I had not been very fortunate in being fitted in 
Paris. " Oh, yes, I can fit you nicely." This time I made no deposit, 
and plainly told her I should not take the dress unless it fitted perfectly 
She began with a plain crinoline ; pinned it on ; began to cut and pin 
together. At the second interview I tried on a lining, in the same old 
way. She pinned and pinned; there was no end of the pinning she 
did. I was soon convinced that she was not making a fit. I kept 
silent ; she kept fitting. The third time I called, finding the waist 
spoiled beyond remedy, my patience was exhausted. I told her and 

51 



5CIENTtFlC DRESS CUTTING AND flAKING 



convinced her that she was not coming near to the standard of perfec- 
tion on which we had agreed at the start. I offered to pay lier for lier 
trouble ; she resisted all my insistence, and would not accept a shilling. 

In Paris I visited the famous Frederick Worth. I miodit not have 
approached him as I did, if I had not been told by some of my custom- 
ers of his saying that he bid not supposed such fine-fitting dresses could 
be made in the United States as he had seen from the establishment of 
Harriet A. Brown in Boston. I told him my name and business. He 
courteously replied that he had had customers who wore dresses that I 
had fitted, and that I surely had shown great knack in the business. 
He further said that he did not think any of the dressmakers in Europe 
had got the art of fitting down so fine as we had in America. T had on 
at the time a waist with a seamless shoulder. Mr. Worth examined it 
carefully, and said exactly these words: '^' A great work!" The lady 
who was with me often recalls this conversation. 

I asked him why it was that T had not secured even a passably good 
fit either in Paris or London. '' I have no dressmakers," he said, '' who 
can give you a fit like the one you have on." 

If I had had the time then at my disposal, I think I should have had 
his dressmakers try what they could do for me. I asked Mr. Worth by 
what system his dressmakers did their cutting. " Oh, we cut hy no 
system," he said. " We get good fits hy working for them." 

At a subsequent interview, I Iniefiy explained my system to him. 
He asked me if it was patented in Europe ; and on my replying in the 
negative, he began proceedings to secure for me European patents. 

But the death of Mr. Worth soon afterwards changed the situation. 
I feel sure that had he lived till to-day, my system would be in his 
hands at the present time, and better known in Europe than it is now 
in America. 



"A WOMAN IS KNOWN BY THE CLOTHES SHE WEARS." 

We instinctively yield respect and extend courtesy to a woman who 
is well dressed. We involuntarily confess by our acts our belief that 
the outer garments are a true indication of character, and that there- 

.52 



KNOWN BY HER CLOTHES 



fore the well-dressed woman is worthy of a certain respect we cannot 
pay to one ill dressed. 

By well dressed we do not mean expensively appareled. A hecom- 
ing dress may l)e of inexpensive material. Neatness in fit, taste in 
combininsi; colors, adaptation of the garments to the individuality of the 
figure, may, without great expense, cause a very economical woman, 
even one whose circumstances compel close economy, to be classed 
among the becomingly attired. On the other hand, one may habitually 
cover herself with elaborate and expensive dresses and costly hats and 
laces and jewelry, and never be mentioned or thought of as a well- 
dressed woman. Good sense and taste are requisite to l)ecoming dress, 
whatever one's means or station. 

Neither are we connnending an undue fastidiousness. The woman 
who confesses in her air that she gives the better part of her mind to 
her dress, at the same time involuntarily confesses that she has onlv a 
weak mind to uive to anvthinsi:. 

To be correctly dressed, and not overdressed, to have nothing in 
one's garments overobtrusive, and notliing out of harmony, to have 
well-fitting garments, with never-failing neatness ; this is a worthy 
ambition for any woman. 

There is something m ortli considering, also, in the style of the woman 
inside the dress. One who is by nature or by attainment '^styhsh," 
who stands gracefully, carries her head well, whose walk is natural, 
may be trusted to give any appropriate attire the right swing, and 
commend herself everywhere by her dress. The same attire on a 
Avoman who stands on her heels, who shambles, who is too full-fronted 
yet has a sinking chest and drooping shoulders, will be unbecoming. 

While it nuist be an exceptionally fortunate woman who can dress 
up to the passing fashion, a tasteful dress, well fitted and made, neat 
and appropriate, suited to one's age and social circle, is within every 
woman's ability. 

If one's income does not admit of costly material, or the employ- 
ment of an expensive dressmaker, the deficiency may l^e made up by 
a woman doing her own thinking and being her own dressmaker. 

This subject assumes very great importance when we realize the 

53 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND HAKINQ 



extent to which " the dress bespeaketh the woman," and " a woman is 
known by the clothes she wears." 



HOMELESS WOMEN. 

" Do we ever think," asked a woman who is making her own way, 
" how many homeless women there are in the world : women who never 
know what it is to sit down and rest; who never expect the call of a 
friend, nor the opportunity to hang a picture, the same as women whose 
lives are made happy by home ; women who have to rise early and 
hastily in the morning, and have no time to arrange their room before 
going to work ; who have no one to say as they leave for the day's trials 
' Good-by ; take care of yourself ' ; who go back to the same room at 
night, and find it dark and still as when left in the morning ; who on 
Sunday have to utilize the day by mending and stitching and fixing up 
the rents and pinned-up places of the week." 

Tens of thousands of women have no home excepting the Httle hall 
room or the back room on the top floor ; and when they wash out a 
handkerchief in their room the landlady glares at them, and they dare 
not speak. They have no time for company in the evening, and if they 
had, they have no place in which to receive such company. Is it any 
wonder we see so many women whose faces are white and lips ashen, 
and whose tapering fingers are purple ? Think of the women who have 
no time nor place to be loved, not even time nor place to hear one 
endearing word. Sometimes the burden becomes too heavy, and then 
there is a missing woman, until the water gives back its dead, and a 
three-line item of coroner's news is all that the world knows. 

The writer of this article is conversant with many facts bearing upon 
this line of thought, coming under personal cognizance. Home, to a 
woman, is the most enchanting spot. In her heart John Howard 
Payne's immortal poem, " Home, Sweet Home," finds its loftiest signifi- 
cance ; and woman herself is the very soul of the home. 

Whoever contributes to the sanctity and the blessedness of the 

54 



WELL-TRAINED TEACHERS 



home, confers an undying benefaction upon all, and especially upon 
womankind. 



WELL-TRAINED TEACHERS 

The Harriet A. Bi'own Dress-cuttinu; and Dressmakino- S\stem 
was the first to call for well-trained teachers. Its first teachers were 
sent out in 181)1. At that time verv little had l)een done to oive li-irls 
a training in manual work. Intellectual training seemed to be the 
whole theme of the few industrial institutions which then existed. 
From that time there has been a o-rowinu; demand for well-trained 
teachers. Many of the industrial institutions have met with failures 
by not employing the proper teachers in their industrial departments. 
In the past ten 3^ears the managers of many industrial institutions have 
seen the need of placing the industrial work on the same basis as the 
intellectual training. 

While so many who go to the large industrial schools are eager to 
learn the dressmaking trade, why not give it to them ? The hands, as 
well as the brain, should be trained. The effect of manual training 
upon the character is the development of the judgment, earnestness, 
readiness, independence, self-respect, enthusiasm, accuracy, steadiness 
and persistence. The will is disciplined and the mind l)roadened by 
industrial training in a profession recjuiring artistic taste and elements 
of character, such as those to which reference has been made. 

No teacher can be successful in the training of girls unless she her- 
self has had the proper training. Many think they can teach girls to 
become dressmakers, who are not themselves properly trained. A dress- 
maker can please her customers and understand dressmaking; but unless 
she be a well-trained teacher, and disciplined to impart knowledge, she 
will surely meet with failure in a teaching position. 

In order that a teacher nuiy be successful, she should be enthusiastic 
over her work. Then she will be al)le to enthuse her pupils. 

To become a teacher in the public schools one is required to spend 
time in the proper training ; the rule holds in regard to those who 

55 



SCIENTIFIC DRESS CUTTING AND HAKINQ 



would be efficient instructors in the industrial schools. Good teachers 
in dressmaking are not plenty. 

Teachers trained under the Harriet A. Brown System can always 
find good positions. Their success in a financial way is amply assured 
just as soon as the system has been mastered; for trained teachers in 
the art of dress-cutting and dressmaking are always in demand. 



Literature and Dressmaking Combined in the Career of Mrs. 

Kate W. Clements. 

Mrs. Kate Wallace Clements was born in Troy, N. Y., in 1861, but 
when she was a year old her family moved to Brooklyn, N. Y., and that 
city, now included in the Greater New York, has ever since been her 
place of residence. She was educated in the Brooklyn schools, and 
before she could use a pen scribbled stories with slate and pencil. Her 
father, who had himself a leaning toward literature, encouraged this 
propensity; and she was soon afterwards known to teacher and school- 
mates as an interesting writer. 

When she was about fourteen years old one of her compositions was 
specialized by being read before tlie school. It was entitled ''A Visit 
to Jupiter." It gave an account of a little girl's imaginary trip to that 
planet, with a description of its inhal)itants and their manner of living. 
Several years afterwards this little essay in fiction appeared in the juve- 
nile department of a magazine. 

Before she was fifteen some verses of hers, entitled " Thanksgiving," 
^Yere■puh\is\ledmt\le Boi/s and Girls 1 Fee A- /^, and otlier of her similar 
productions appeared in different periodicals. A series of short stories 
written at this period, when she had only her limited experience to 
draw from, evinces power of imagination and description and the other 
mental qualities essential to a successf id writer. 

She at this period received help l)y a studious reading of the masters 
of English, like Dickens, George Eliot, and the supreme master of ex- 
pression. Lord Byron. 

But scarcely had her schooldays ended before she was by stern 
necessity compelled to turn from the inviting pursuit of literature to 

56 



LITERATURE AND DRESSHAKiNQ COflBlNED 

some calling wherein she conld hecome self-supporting. At this time 
she became acquainted with the Harriet A. Brown System of Dress 
Cutting and Making, and was captivated by its promise. She had a 
natural talent for dressmaking, and in a short time gained such pro- 
ficiency in the use of this system that she was called to fill a f)osition as 
its teacher in the famous Pratt Institute of Brooklyn. 

It seemed to her, at this period, that her cherished hopes of success 
in literature were blighted. Yet she found leisure to indulge in the occa- 
sional use of her pen ; her productions at this time being naturally de- 
voted to the application of art to woman's comfort and adornment in dress. 

Her life from that time has been burdened and busy. Yet her 
facility in writing, even under such difficulties, has won for her recog- 
nition as "one of the penwomen of Brooklyn." She hopes in the 
future, l)y securing more time for literary work, to accomplish some of 
the things which have long appealed to her ambition. She has surely 
one important element of success, — a determination to win, based on an 
assured Ijelief that it is in her to win. And those who know her have 
even more faith in a brilliant future for her than she herself possesses. 

It is a gratification to us to receive from Mrs. Clements this unqutili- 
fied and valuable testimonial: "I have used the Harriet A. Brown Sys- 
tem of Di'ess-cuttiug for ten years, during which time it has given, and 
still continues to give, entire satisfaction. For shnplicity, accuracy and 
perfection in lit, it has no equal. In all my experience as a fitter I 
have found no figure, no matter how poorly proportioned, that I could 
not fit without the slightest difficulty hy the use of this system. There 
is no guessing about it, no misfits. Its merits are manifold, its lines 
artistic and graceful. It possesses the advantage of lightness, and can 
be carried Ijy dressmakers going out by the day ; many other so-called 
' systems ' which I have examined having awkward squares, heavy 
weights and clumsy appliances, rendering them unfit to carry from 
house to house. I have used the system when working as visiting 
dressmaker, mv customer.^ being among the elite of this city and New 
York. I have also used it in connection with my work as fitter in the 
special order department of dressmaking in one of the leading houses of 
New York." 

fi7 



Specimen Testifflonials, 



TESTinONIALS 



A Scientific System of Dress-fitting. 

Dressmaking has in those days heconie one of the high arts, and the community 
acknowledges itself in the deht of any one who can better tlie personal appearance 
of womankind. The times when cutting a waist and sewing it together would 
constitute dressmaking, have gone by. Among those who have been successful 
in arranging a system of scientific rules for fitting the figure, in lines and curves 
that shall show a fine figure to advantage and obscure the blemishes of a poor 
one, is Mrs. Harriet A. Brown, who has devoted many years to the task, and 
whose success as a teacher has given Boston some of her best dressmakers. The 
Taylor system had everything about its own way until Mrs. Brown, several years 
since, perfected her rules, which not only gave a better shape to shoulders and 
waist, but did what no other rules ever pretended to do, — cut below the waist- 
line. Mrs. Brown has exhibited in both the last two fairs, being awarded last year 
the only silver medal for dressmakers given, and where her system attracted much 
attention, and since when she has both wittingly and unwittingly been the in- 
structor of cutters from all the fashionable dressmakers' establishments in this city, — 
a fact that is the best of endorsement of the system. Another compliment to her 
rules is having been selected as instructor in dressmaking at Lassell Seminary. 
The most superficial glance at the manner in which her work is done will convince 
one of its thoroughness, while a special advantage is in the fact that if the rules are 
intelligently followed, it is impossible that the dress should not fit; it is as plain 
as that two and two make four, that the result must V)e the shape of the figure 
measured. Ladies who have been fitted by the system will invariably look for 
dressmakers using it, but as there are many counterfeits in the city, they should con- 
vince themselves by understanding it, that Mrs. Brown's rules are being employed. 
— Boston Home Journal. 



An Important Industrial Institution. 

It is very difficult for young men or women who are obliged to earn their own 
livelihood, to select something where they earn enough to meet their actual living 
expenses. Many articles have been printed showing how persons can exist on flOO 
per year. It looks very beautiful in type, but the facts prove it an impossibility, as 
they cannot provide themselves with the necessities essential to life in its lowest 
form. The large warehouses offer young women an opportunity to work from early 
morning until night, for $2.00 to $4.00 per week, with the prospect of an advance, 
w^hich, by the way, they rarely ever get. This is the principle by which many 
large houses get their work done for nothing, or very nearly nothing ; a few mo- 
ments late from the specific hours is speedily deducted from the wages at the end. 
of the week. 

59 



TESTinONIALS 



The profits Avhich are made b}' one of our largest houses are made in this way, 
directly from the labor which they thus obtain at a very small outlay. With the 
young man the prospects are somewhat better, as in a short time he learns what 
he is worth, and after acquiring a knowledge of the business, compels his emplo^^er 
to pay him what he can earn, on a business basis ; in this he sometimes succeeds, 
but more frequently meets with failure. To obviate this dithculty, and open to the 
working classes an opportunity for earning a good and substantial living, the Bos- 
ton Dress-cutting College oj^ened some years ago. It was established by a number 
of philanthropic ladies, on a purely charitable basis, with Mrs. Harriet A. I^rown 
as general manager. 

Large numbers of the working classes have here received their education, and 
are now earning handsome incomes throughout the United States, the west, south 
and southwest being fully represented. We have recently made an investigation, 
for the benefit of the reading public, to ascertain the facts, and we can safely say 
it occupies a prominent place among the institutions of Boston. It is claimed, and 
has been demonstrated by philanthropic leaders, that it is not charity to give to 
able-bodied persons, as it only leads to a life of idleness, but to force them to 
earn that which they receive and which they value in consequence. This is an 
established fact in nearly every business. 

Once a year an evening class is started for the working girls, and no distinction 
is made, if their occujjation is an honorable one. It is intended at a later period to 
add many other features, such as millinery, embroidery, feather stitching, crochet- 
ing, etc. Many classes have recently been formed in the different suburbs, teach- 
ers being furnished at the college. Xear Boston the good work is being rapidly 
pushed forward, under the instructive influence of able and competent teachers. 
Dorchester is a very good field for a branch of this kind, in which an active busi- 
ness man or woman could make a very handsome living, while benefiting the large 
number of working girls who are constantly pouring into Boston from the Cape 
and vicinity. — Dorchester Beacon. 



I have worked at dressmaking for twenty years, using the Harriet A. Brown 
System, which was a mathematical system. I took up her late invention, which is 
more simple and accurate, and can truly testif}^ to its real worth. When measures 
are correctly taken there is positively no refitting. The lines are artistic and pieces 
good shape ; gives an easy fit, which my customers have often remarked. In the 
last six years I have taught classes and find tlie system well adapted to class work, 
easy and interesting to the pupils. It should be at every industrial school. Mrs. 
Brown deserves great credit in placing such a great work before the public. 

S. A. Colby, 
Teacher, Connecticut Industrial School, Middletown, Conn. 
60 



TESTIMONIALS 



Louisville, Kt. 
Harrikt a. Brown, 

Dress Chitting and ^faking College, liostoti : 

For siiiii)licity we think your dress-cutting system the very best in school work. 

It is easily tauglit and the patterns made are very accurate and produce a perfect 

lit. The pupils take up the drafting very i-eadily and are always interested in the 

work. C. lloxiJoKOUGii, 

Instructor of Dressmaking and dewing. 



New Dress-cutting College. 

We are pleased to have our attention called to a new institution opened on 
Tremont Street, under the title of Boston Dress-cutting College ; and why should 
there not be a college connected with this branch of industry? Upon investiga- 
tion we are informed that its doors were opened several years ago by Harriet A. 
Brown, a woman who has for years made dress-cutting a study in all its points, 
until she succeeded in patenting rules for cutting, and also obtained the only pat- 
ent for perfection in putting work together, feeling sure that she had obtained 
results that would l)enetit all who desired to obtain a perfect and thorough knowl- 
edge of dressmaking, and who were desirous of taking the lead in this business by 
giving entire satisfaction, rewarded by compensation which would enable them to 
more than secure a paltry existence w^th their needles. Women and <»-irls have 
eagerly come, as they learned of its merits ; and after obtaining the required 
knowledge, have gone away gratefully acknowledging its benefits when situations 
were offered them and salaries obtained which were equal to the average business 
man's. Quietly and surely has this foundation been laid by the noble and philan- 
thropic woman whose life-desire is to give the most perfect and thorough under- 
standing of her work into the hands of all desirous of uplifting woman's work. 
Ladies should call at this worthy college and see for themselves that dress-cuttino- 
is a fine art, and of the greatest importance as regards beauty, comfort and utility. 
— " Truth,''^ in Woman s Journal. 



What a Boston Woman Has Accomplished. 

I have many times been attracted by a group of fashionably dressed ladies on 
Tremont Street, eagerly discussing a dress waist with no seams on the shoulders. 
From further observations and inquiry the writer ascertained that this was the 
Boston Dress-cutting College, of which Harriet A. Brown, the well-known in- 
ventor and patentee of scientific dress-cutting, is the principal, Wishino- to learu 
more of this now much-talked-of institute, the writer, for the benefit of thou- 
sands of readers, called at this college, and was received in its elegantly-fitted-up 

61 



TESTinONIALS 



rooms by Mrs. Brown, who has won honors that any lady could but feel proud of. 
I find that after years of hard struggles and battles against the fraudulent sys- 
tems, Harriet Brown was victorious in accomplishing what no other one in Europe 
or America has been able to do : that is to secure patents on a seamless shoulder 
for dress waists. I looked at it as being very nice for a man's coat. I find, upon 
investigation, that many of our leading dressmakers owe much of their success to 
the brilliant ideas which have come from Mrs. Brown's brain. 

The tine work accomplished at this college is wonderful ; also the charitable work 
carried on there would make many charitable institutions of New England look 
well to their laurels. The rich as well as the poor flock there to learn her meth- 
ods. Hundreds of poor girls who have graduated from this college are to-day in 
good circumstances and command good prices for their work. Another great com- 
pliment Mrs. Brown should feel proud of is that one of the largest industrial insti- 
tutions in America decided to make the best possible improvement in the teaching 
of dress-cutting ; after a thorough investigation of many systems taught in Europe 
— Paris and London — also in America, preference was given to Harriet A. 
Brown's methods that are taught at the college. Boston should feel honored in 
having such talent in this line of industry. — J/i, in Sunday Budget. 



Science in Cutting. 

Often in woman's finest field — the domestic — helpful originators and splendid 
workers are worthy of renown in song and story. Such an originator is Harriet 
A. Brown, who has given twenty years of her life to distinguishing the right 
from the wrong way of dressmaking. Hers has been the science of the scissors and 
the art of basting. Not a dart or a curve but has received her serious attention. 
She had watched working girls in Boston, and saw talent for sewing everywhere 
without the scientific knowledge to make it of account. She determined to make 
scientific dressmaking her mission in life. To do so she bent all her energies upon 
achieving the simplest and most correct system. She was the first woman to whom 
a patent for basting was granted. Then followed all kinds of patents, until at 
the World's Fair she took the highest medal for her system. Harriet A. Brown 
was the first to open in Boston a dress cutting and making college for the educa- 
tion of women and girls. 

She has proved herself a great benefactress to many of her own sex, and to-day 
more than three thousand women and girls bear Mrs. Brown's endorsement on 
their dressmaking cards, showing that her faithful teaching among needy women is 
reaping a harvest. That what has been said above is fully justified by the facts, 
is evidenced by the number of industrial-educational institutions which, after a 
careful examination of all the various dress-cutting systems, both in this country 
and Europe, adopted the Harriet A. Brown System. 

62 



TESTinONIALS 



Mrs. Brown lius many valuable patents on her nietliorls of cutting and basting. 
All her work is original, and gained through long experience in dressmaking, and 
it has been acknowledged by artists in dressmaking, also leading tailors, that Har- 
riet A. Brown was the tirst and only one to invent a tailor system of inch measure- 
ment so simple that all classes of girls can acquire more perfect knowledge in less 
time than by any other system now used. 

With Mrs. Brown's late improvements on her system, it is bound to explode 
the use of all complicated squares with scales and mathematical ])roblenis. She 
speaks, from her own experience, as the first system was a square, and, like all, 
intricate and hard to understand, yet better than many now taught. For many 
years the leading dressmakers of Boston have a{)plied to this college for girls who 
have been under her training. Also ladies who have their dressmaking done at 
home depend largely upon Mrs. Brown for their dressmakers. Those who are 
seeking for a higher knowledge in the art of dressmaking should not fail to visit 
Mrs. Brown's college, 149a Treniont Street, lioston. — iSaturday Eoeniag Gazette. 



Mrs. H. A, Brown^s Fine Exhibit at the Mechanics^ Fair. 

In the dress-cutting department at the Mechanics' Fair nothing is more worth 
notice, nor is there anything more attractive to ladies, than Mrs. Brown's exhibit. 
Her work is unrivaled, and the results shown are artistic in the extreme and 
worthy of the great admiration they receive. 

Her scientific rules for basting and dress-cutting are superior in every way, as 
her perfect tits have so often testified, and the firm adherents to her mode would 
make a list of remarkable length. We find that Mrs. Brown was the tirst to per- 
fect the system of scientific dress-cutting. She has made dress-cutting a study for 
years, and cannot be equaled in her rules for obtaining a perfect fit and imparting 
her method to others. 

Three years ago Mrs. Brown made the finest exhibit of scientific dress cutting 
and basting in the Mechanics' Fair, and was awarded the silver medal and diploma. 
So great is Mrs. Brown's reputation in preparing pu})ils for filling remunerative 
positions that her dress-cutting college keeps her very busy, while many are wait- 
ing to get in for instruction. 

When Mrs. Brown enters her space at the fair she usually finds several await- 
ing her. She was heard to remark that she could take no more pupils till the mid- 
dle of December, and cutters from her college are in such demand that many of her 
lady patrons are obliged to await their turn. A lady was heard to remark at the 
fair the other day : " It is most wonderful to see what her pupils can do, for I 
have employed them." 

In the face of all these facts, we hear that at an exhibit of skill in dress-fitting, 
to take place next Wednesday or Thursday, Mrs. Brown is excluded because her 

63 



TESTinONIALS 



method is to fit the outside cloth and lining together, not believing in fitting linings. 
Judging from appearances and Mrs. Brown's wonderful artistic work, this seems 
an unjustifiable proceeding, and one without reason or fairness. 

We advise all ladies to visit Mrs. Brown's exhibit at the fair, for the observa- 
tion of her processes of cutting will be a source of great pleasure and profit. — 
Sunday Times. 



A Noble Institution. 

Every one who is interested in the social and economic pi'oblems of the day 
should be informed as to what is being done to improve the condition of the labor- 
ing classes. This thought was especially emphasized in the mind of the writer 
recently by having his attention called to an institution of which he had had no 
previous knowledge, but which deserves to rank among the most important and 
effective provisions modern philanthropy has devised for lessening the disabilities 
and broadening the opportunities of hampered and unrequited labor. Harriet A. 
Brown, principal and general manager of the Boston College for Dress Cutting 
and Making, who is also the inventor and patentee of the famous " Brown Ameri- 
can System," deserves, as she is receiving, the encomiums due to one who, in a very 
practical and far-reaching sense, has proved a benefactress to great numbers of the 
working class of her own sex. Young and middle-aged women there are all over 
the United States and in foreign countries who are earning good comfortable in- 
comes, and are leading briglit and happy lives, as the result of the training 
received at this excellent institutu)n, and of the knowledge and use of the Harriet 
A. Brown System. They may well bless the day they heard of the college, and 
that upon which they decided to avail themselves of the knowledge its efficient 
principal and corps of instructors are so competent to impart. 

That what has been said above is fully justified by the facts is evidenced by the 
number of industrial-educational institutions which, after a careful examination of 
all other systems, both in this country and in Europe, have adopted the Harriet A. 
Brown System as the best. — Carnbridge Chronicle. 



Augusta, Me., Dec. 12, 1901. 
Mrs. Harriet A. Brown. 

Dear Madam .- I learn with pleasure that you are about to publish in book 
form your famous system of dress cutting and making. I know that many who 
are alone in life and are obliged to fight its battles with that small weapon, the 
needle, will find it an invaluable helper. A woman's life is made up of the little 
things which must be done over and over again. A work such as you propose can- 
not fail to be an inspiration. 

64 



TESTinONIALS 



From the constant use of your system I can speak of its merits. I wish that 
every school or institution where the young are taught might accept it and teach it, 
as I am aware a great many do already. 

Wishing you the Lest success, I remain, your friend, 

Lucie A. Smart. 



Boston, Mass., Jan. 11, 1902. 
My dear Mrs. Brown : Long before I ever saw you I heard a great deal 
about the Harriet A. Brown Dressmaking System, its perfect fit, symmetrical lines, 
graceful curves, French style, simple method and ease of adaptation. Consequently, 
like most ladies looking for such perfection in dressmaking, I began to examine the 
system. When I heard of the number of girls who had learned this system and are 
to-day not only supporting themselves but whole families by its use, I felt that the 
originator of the system was one of the benefactors of mankind. My interest 
increased after finding out that not only in Boston is it known as the most reliable 
and artistic system, but as such is used and taught extensively in all the large 
cities of our Union. Knowing the good it has done, I can say " God bless the 
inventor." You are to publish a book, I understand, so systematic in detail that a 
person of ordinary intelligence can learn dress cutting and making by careful read- 
ing. For a small sum you thus open a way to a large and remunerative business. 

Respectfully yours, 

Helen G. Nichols, 

112 Berkeley Street. 



Harriet A. Brown. 

Dear Madam : It gives me great pleasure to testify to the merits and worth of 
your dress-cutting system. I learned your first system about fifteen years ago and 
used it about five years with good success. Then I took up the new simplified sys- 
tem in heart form, and found it much easier to draft with, and a great saving of time. 

Yours, 

Isabel A. Hammond, 

Kingston, Mass. 



Boston, Mass., Dec. 15, 1901. 
Harriet A. Brown. 

Dear Madam : It gives me great pleasure to give my endorsement to your 
valuable system of dress-cutting. Have been a dressmaker for twelve years, cut- 
ting by the S. T. Taylor System, which I only wish I had discarded before. I 
find the Harriet A. Brown System so simple and the work so accurate that too much 
cannot be said in its praise. I can nearly complete a waist before trying on the first 
time. My customers often remark hov/ easy and comfortable their waist tits. 

65 



TESTinONIALS 



Every dressmaker shoiild adopt such a simple and perfect system and save a 
great deal of time and worry in drafting and fitting. 

Yours truly, 

M. E. Campbell, 

191 West Brookline Street. 



Newtonville, Mass., Jan. 20, 1902. 
My dear Mrs. Brown : I have used your system with very satisfactory results. 
I find it remarkably simple and accurate. 

My customers often speak of the comfortable feeling of the waists cut by your 
system, and are usually very much surprised and pleased by the small amount of 
time and strength required for trying on. 

For the use of any one who wishes to save time and patience in dressmaking, 
I heartily recommend the Harriet A. Brown System. 

Yours sincerely, 

Josephine C. Estes. 



Boston, Mass. 
Harriet A. Brown, , 

149a Tremo7it Street. 
I am pleased to give my testimonial to your valuable system of dress cutting and 
basting. 

I have used the Harriet A. Brown System four years, giving perfect satisfaction 
to my customers, who often ask what system I use, as their waists feel so comfort- 
able, and so little trying on. No dressmaker can afford to he without such a per- 
fect and accurate system, which produces such perfect lines to the figure. The draft 
of the sleeve is very perfect for every different shaped arm, which saves much 
trouble in fitting. 

Madam Taylor, 

3 Oxford Terrace. 



Wellesley Hills, Jan. 11, 1902. 
Dear Mrs. Brown : It gives me great pleasure to add my name in favor of your 
most wonderful dress-cutting system. I have used the Harriet A. Brown System 
for twelve years and taken all the improvements up to the present time. I have 
also taken the course ; having tired of dressmaking, have filled a position in Jackson- 
ville, Fla., in an industrial school. I find this system well adapted to the teaching 
of girls ; very simple and accm-ate. I should recommend it to all industrial schools. 
L.ofC. Mary A. Kexney, 

Wellesley Hills. 
66 



INSTITUTIONS 



^ 



r 



Catholic (Uomen's J1$$oclation 

(UNIVERSITY EXTENSION CENTER) 

no. 10 Prospect Place, Brooklyn, Hew VorR 




CLASSES IN 

Sewing Hand Embroidery Arithmetic Elementary English 

Millinery Machine Embroidery Penmanship Stenography 

Dressmaking Cooking Bookkeeping Typewriting 



Physical Culture 
Voice Culture 
Modern Languages 



LECTURE COURSES ON SCIENTIFIC AND LITERARY SUBJECTS 

An Emplovnit'iit Bureau and a "Woman's Exchaufie are important adjunots t" tlie <lass work. 

In the Dressmaking Department is a special course for those who wish to h'aiii only system 
work. The Harriet A.Brown System is nsed, which we consider, after long experience, the very 
best in use. Evening classes are formed for young women who wish to learn sewing and dress- 
making. 



Rev. E. W. Mccarty, President Mrs. EDWARD BURNS, Treasurer 

Mrs. ELLEN BENNETT, ist Vice-Pres. Miss SARAH E. CARTY, Financial Secretary 

Mrs. JAMES SHEVLIN, 2d Vice-Pres. Miss ANNIE E. HULL, General Secretary 



TESTinONIALS 



Catholic Woman's Association, 

10 Pkospect Place, Brooklyn, N. Y. 
Mrs. Haeriet Brown : Since the organization of this association, four years 
ago, we have used the Harriet A. Brown System in our dressmaking department. 
We find it most satisfactory in every particular. Respectfully, 

Marie A. O'Connell, 
Chairman Educational Committee, Catholic Women's Association. 



Brooklyn, N. Y. 
It gives me great pleasure to endorse the Harriet A. Brown System of Dress- 
cutting. I have used it in business for ten years and as teacher in the dressmaking 
department of the Catholic Women's Association for the past seven, and tind it 
most satisfactory in every respect, simple and easy to understand. Our numbers 
have increased, and reports from pupils after leaving have been very gratifying. 

Adelaide C. Godfrey, 

S63 Garfield Place. 

Boylan Home School, Jacksonville, Fla. 
We are using the Harriet A. Brown System in our dressmaking department and 
find it satisfactory in every respect. A knowledge of this accurate and complete 
system will insure good work and a good business for any painstaking student. 

H. E. Emerson. 



Newburyport, Mass., Jan. 10, 1902. 

My dear Mrs. Brown : I see by your letter that you are to retire from busi- 
ness in dressmaking. While I am glad that you are to give up such laborious 
work, I shall most deeply regret to give you up, for my work has been so very 
satisfactory for many years. I am sure it will be a long time before I shall find 
a dressmaker Avho Avill fill your place, and give such perfect fits ; every line 
seems to be in just the right place. So few dressmakers have studied the art of 
dressmaking as you have ; had they done so they would be far more successful 
dressmakers. While I have had many imported gowns, none of them can compare 
with the fitting which your most wonderful system gives. 

I wish you all success with the book you are writing of all your work. It will 
be a great help to all who are interested in dressmaking. It must be a great pleas- 
ure to you in retiring with so great a name and reputation. 

I shall want one of your books when they are out. 

We are talking of going to San Francisco ; if we do, I shall want to know if you 
have any one there who cuts by your system. Most respectfully yours, 

Mrs. C. W. Carlton. 
68 



TESTinONIALS 



WiXTUKOP Normal and Tndlstkial College, 

IJocK Hill, South Cakolina. 
This institution nuiks among tlie great L'ducational institutions of the South. 
Besides providing tor ])U})ils who desire a literary course, and giving ample atten- 
tion to the sciences and to physical culture, it has courses in stenography and type- 
writing, bookkeeping, millinery and dressmaking. In the latter department the 
Harriet A. Brown System is used, and after long exi)erience commended. A recjuest 
sent to the undersigned will hi'ing to an iixjuirer a catalogue furnishing full infor- 
mation in regard to this up-to-date institution. 

1). 1>. Johnson', President. 



Young Woman's Ciikistian Association, Xewakk, N. J. 
Harriet A. Brown, Boston^ Mass. 

l)ear Jladinu : We wish to say that in our dress cutting and making classes 
we have used your charts for seven years; we are entirely satisfied with them. 
In fact, helieve them preferahle to any in use. At the annual exhibition of work 
<lone 1)}' our classes there is always high })raise of the cut and style of the dresses 
and gowns. Yours very truly, 

Mrs. K. C. Jenkinson, President. 

Mrs. C. C. Hl SE, Vice-President. 

Miss M. H. IlicE, Treasurer. 

Mrs. Wji, a. Kice, Recording ^Secretary. 



I take great pleasure in recommending Mrs. lirown's method for cutting. Many 
are looking and know not which to take, but to-day I would not take five hundred 
dollars for the knowledge she has given me. Never cut before taking her instruc- 
tions in 1886. 

I gave up a good position in millinery, at my own risk, one year ago, and have 
never been sorry, as 1 have plenty of work. Ladies where I cut are willing to be 
referred to, and say it is a perfect wonder to try waists on so perfectly. I owe my 
whole success to Mrs. Brown's teaching. Anme McKey, 

88 White Street, East Boston. 



Dear Mrs. Brown : Having used your system for cutting dresses and outside 
garments for the past year, it affords me great pleasure to say I find it possesses 
all, and more than all, of the merits you claim for it. Its value cannot be over- 
estimated. If measures are correctly taken, there is positively no refitting — a state- 

69 



TESTinONIALS 



ment which I believe cannot be made with regard to any other system now in use. 
Have used S. T. Taylor's System eight years. I now find my work much easier and 
the fitting much less trouble. Respectfully, 

Miss Elsie Jones, 

Freeport, Me. 



MlDDLETOWN, CONN. 

To Harriet A. Brown, 

149a Tremont Street, Boston, 3fass. 

I have used several systems of dress-cutting, but consider the Harriet A. Brown 
System far superior to any other. 

Having taught the system for three years in the Connecticut Industrial School 

to classes numbering twenty-five and thirty, I find it specially adapted to the varied 

needs of class work. The pupils of ordinary ability are able to use the system 

successfully, while for those who are apt, too much cannot be said in its praise. 

For dressmakers it is a great saving of time, and with accurate basting and 

measuring there is positively no refitting. 

Susie E. Gray. 



This is to certify that I have cut with Mrs. Brown's Scientific Rules for one 
year. Have used several systems now advertised, and feel safe to say hers are the 
only rules perfected whereby one can try garments on perfectly. Great care is done 
away with in refitting, and in the thirty years I have done Inisiness, it has never 
been so easy as at the present time. I feel perfectly safe to cut and make costumes 
complete before sending home, and am sure they will fit. 

What more can we ask? One may take all the systems, and they are not 
perfect in the art of cutting if they have no scientific principle to work from. 

With my long experience in cutting, am willing to give Mrs. Brown great 
credit in perfecting dress-cutting scientifically. 

Mrs. L. M. Knight, 

301 Shawmut Avenue 



State Xormal School, Baltimore, Md. 
The Harriet A. Brown System of Dress-cutting has proved very satisfactory in 
our State Normal School. The pupils understand it readily and are greatly in- 
terested in the work. The teacher. Miss A. M. O'Dea, from Mrs. Brown's College, 
has been very successful in her instructions. 

E. B. Prettyman, Princijyal. 

Sarah E. Richmond, Vice-Principal. 

70 



TESTinONIALS 



WASHINfiTON, D. C. 

Mrs. Harriet A. Brown, 

149a Tremont Street, Boston, Mass. 
It gives nie great jdeasure to give my endorsement to your valuable system of 
dress cutting and basting. Its simplicity and accuracy should recommend it to 
all dressmakers. The system is well adapted to stout forms. I would recommend 
it to dressmakers going out by the day, it is so easily carried, not making a larger 
parcel than a roll of music. I think my time was well s])ent going to lioston for 
the Harriet A. Brown System. I now teach the system at the State Normal 
School, Baltimore, Md., and the Wimodaughsis of Washington, D. C. 

Annie M. O'Dea, 

920 19th Street, N. W. 



()rangebur(;, S. C, Feb. 16, 1901. 
Harriet A. Brown, 

Dear Madam : It affords me the greatest jdeasure to say a few words about 
your most valuable system of dress-cutting and putting work together. I have 
used other systems and tried to teach them, but was not successful with them. 
After going to your college and taking up the teacher's course, I had no trouble 
in getting a good position. I consider the Harriet A. Brown System superior to 
all systems. It is so simple the girls can easily understand it and learn very 
quickly to draft ; no mathematical figuring, as in many systems. Every institution 
should adopt this system for the benefit of girls. 

Clara C. Davis, 

Teacher of Dressmaking, State College. 



Washix(4Ton, D. C. 
Harriet A. Brown, 

149a 2'reniont Street, Boston, 3fass. 
It gives us great pleasure to endorse the Harriet A. Brown System of Dress- 
cutting. We are pleased to say that our classes in dressmaking have increased in 
number and the pupils have made good progress in the work. The sj'stem is 
simple, with no mathematical problems for one to study out in order to cut a well- 
fitting dress. It is well adapted to class work or individual teaching. The 
teacher. Miss A. M. O'Dea, sent to us by Mrs. Brown, has proved very satisfactory. 

Mrs. A. S. Hamilton, 

President Wimodaughsis. 



Boston, Mass., Dec. 19, Ls99. 
It gives me great pleasure to write a few words for the great work which has 
been done by Mrs. Brown, I write this from my own experience, having studied 
all her systems and made dressmaking a great success, which I owe to Mrs. Brown's 

71 



TESTinONIALS 



teaching. I have known Mrs. Brown for many years, and that she has worked 
hard for her reputation and to found her dressmaking college. I am sure it was 
the first dressmaking college started in the United States. Unprincipled parties 
have taken her college name and even run under the name of Brown — all such 
things has Mrs. Brown had to contend with. I am safe to say that no one person 
has made such a great study of dress-cutting, and taken out as many patents on 
dress systems as Mrs. Brown. Her great aim has been to invent a simple system, 
which she has done, and has lived to see great results from her hard labors. 

Mrs. ir. E. Morse, 

116 Berkeley Street, Boston, Mass. 



FiTOHBURG, Mass. 
I am pleased to give my testimonial to the Harriet A. Brown Dress System. I 
have given much time to dressmaking, using different systems, but I was not satis- 
fied until I entered Mrs. Brown's Dressmaking College in 1894, taking a course of 
lessons which has proved to me very successful. I have always filled good positions 
given to me by Mrs. Brown, from above date. I consider the Harriet A. Brown 
System far in advance of all others for simplicit}' and good results — for ease and 
comfort, my customers often remark. 

Mrs. M. E. Pool, 

With JVichols tfc Frost. 



Baltimore, Md. 
It gives me pleasure to state that for some time we have used the Harriet A. 
Brown System of Cutting and Fitting in our dressmaking department, with the 
most satisfactory results. 

It is easily understood, is accurate, and in every particular well adapted to class 
and individual instruction. 

Helex J. RowE, 

Principal Samuel Ready School. 



It is with great pleasure I recommend Mrs. Brown's Scientific Rules for cutting 
dresses and outside garments. Great care is done away with in refitting, and I owe 
it all to her instructions, given from her practical knowledge in fitting all forms, 
which could never be done with other systems I have used. 

The points given in basting are worth a great deal to any dressmaker, 
which I am willing to acknowledge after working years at the business, with no 
surety of a perfect fit the first time trying on, which I can now do, and with satis- 
faction to customers. 

Mrs. Harrington, 

612 Treniont Street. 
72 



TESTinONIALS 



Boston, Mass., Feb. 23, 1901. 
It is with pleasure I write this testimonial for the Harriet A. Brown Dress 
Cutting and Basting System. I have used the system for twelve years and taken 
the improvements up to the present time. I can truly say when a waist is properly 
cut and basted by her instructions there is positively no refitting. My customers 
often remark the beautiful lines and curves it gives to the figure. I never saw a 
seamless shoulder before seeing one worn by Mrs. JJrown, who invented and se- 
cured patents on it; also the French bias, and two under-arm pieces for stout 
figures. Let us give credit where it is due. 

Miss E. S. Haines, 

356 BoylHtnn Street. 



Dover, N. II., Sept. 4, 1890. 
Have worked at dressmaking twenty-five years, and used many systems for cut- 
ting. I am now using tlie Harriet A. Brown System (simplified system), and find 
ray work much easier. It is a great saving of time ; too much cannot be said in its 
praise. I am now able to put the outside on the lining before the fii'st fitting, and 
am sure it will fit perfectly. I had never used the two under-arm pieces for stout 
forms before taking lessons of Mrs. Brown; also the French bias, w^hich is a great 
improvement on tailor waists. 

Mrs. L. A. TwoMBLY. 



Brooklyn, N. Y. 
I have taught the Harriet A. Brown System of Cutting for over six years, also 
have used it in practical dressmaking, and have found it a simple, quick and very 
satisfactory system of drafting. I can highly recommend it for both class work 
and private use. 

Laura A. Smith, 
Teacher of Dressmaking, Y. W. C. A., Brooklyn, N. Y. 



Bath, Me., Feb. 24, 1902. 
I am pleased to give my testimonial to the Harriet A. Brown Dress System. I 
have used and taught it for the last twelve or thirteen years, and it has always given 
perfect satisfaction. My customers often speak of the ease and comfort of the waists, 
which is very essential to success, its simplicity making it easy to grasp. 

M. P. Delano, 

Teacher of Dressmaking . 



Boston, Mass., March 12, 1901. 
It affords me great pleasure to recommend the Harriet A. Brown Dress-cutting 
System. "Time is money," and time can be saved with this system, which I con- 
sider complete in every way. I have found in twenty years' experience, during three- 
quarters of which I used the S. T. Taylor System, that the Harriet A. Brown System 
cannot be excelled. Other systems tnke much more labor and time, and do not 
produce as good results. 

L. P. Copp, 

120 Tremont Street. 
73 



INSTITUTIONS 



'^he Berean Manual Trainirig 
and Industrial ScKool. >^ 

R.ev. MattHew^ Anderson, A.M., Principal. 



THIS is one of the several institutions which have grown out of the well-known 
Berean Presbyterian Church of Philadelphia, founded by its present pastor, 
Rev. Matthew Anderson, A.M. To merely repeat the names of the useful institu- 
tions which originated in this live and fruitful church, cannot be otherwise than 
interesting. " The Berean Kindergarten," opened in 1884 ; "The Berean Building 
and Loan Association," founded in 1888 ; "The Berean Seaside Home," situated at 
Point Pleasant, N. J. ; "The Berean Bureau of Mutual Help"; "The Berean Man- 
ual Training and Industrial School " : such is the list of prosperous institutions 
which have been born of the parent church. How can we estimate the benefit that 
these institutions confer on those who most need help in the struggle of life. 

The " Manual Training and Industrial School " is among the more recent insti- 
tutions of the parent church, having been founded in November, 1899. It began 
with thirty-five pupils ; at the beginning of 1902 its enrollment numbered more than 
two hundred. The instruction conferred is very comprehensive, including from 
the first practical training in mechanical drawing, plain sewing, cooking, sight- 
reading of music, and the English language ; to which have been added millinery, 
dressmaking, typewriting, stenography and bookkeeping. 

Concerning the dressmaking department of this institution, the principal writes : 
"There are over sixty young women now in the sewing and dressmaking depart- 
ment alone. These pupils are making conmiendable progress. The excellent in- 
structors and the rapid strides that the dressmaking department is making, are due 
principally to the most excellent system that is used, the Harriet A. Brown System, 
which is taught in the Drexel Institute, as also in many other of the best schools 
of manual training." 

That the Harriet A. Brown Sj-stem proves its superiority under such a practical 
test, in such a deserving institution, is surely a recommendation we highly esteem. 



Philadelphia, Jan. 3, 1902. 
Mrs. Harriet A. Brown, 

Dress-cutting and Dressmaking College, Boston, Mass. 
My dear Mrs. Broion: In the fall of 1899 a bright young woman called on me 
to apply for the position as teacher of dressmaking in the proposed Berean Manual 
Training and Industrial School, which she had seen announced in the papers. 

74 



TESTinONIALS 



Prior to her call I had received letters from three clergymen in highest praise ot 
her ability and character. A few moments' conversation with her convinced me 
that she was at least extremely well posted on the various systems of dressmaking 
in use ahout the country. I questioned her about her system and methods. She 
replied by unfolding the most glowing account of the Harriet A. Brown System, 
the merits of which were at that time unknown to me. 

Since then I have been studying the well-known systems, and I am now free to 
admit that for simplicity, economy and scientific principle the Harriet A. Brown 
System excels them all. I consider that it was no more than right that this system 
should have received the highest award given by the World's Fair at Chicago for 
systems of dressmaking. 

It gratifies me to state that the Berean ^lanual Training and Industrial School 
of Philadelphia uses the Harriet A. Brown System of Dressmaking. 

Respectfully yours. 

Rev. Matthew Anderson, A.M., Priticipal. 



Dress Young. 

The inclination of American women who have passed thirty-five is to dress a 
little bit older than they ought to. When forty-five or fifty comes there is, of 
course, a certain quiet dignity required in one's gowns ; but if you have a particle 
of influence over her, my dear girl, don't let mother dress too old. There is no 
reason why a woman should look like a mummy when her heart is only twenty 
years old, even if she has a crown of gray hair encircling her head. Somebody 
wrote and asked about materials and gowns for middle-aged women. Now, the 
middle-aged woman is not doing her duty to herself or to mankind if she looks 
middle aged, and the elderly one is only correct when she suggests to you that she 
is just middle aged. The quiet, rich cloths, the heavy brocades for indoor wear, 
and the silks that seem to stand alone and have their purpose for ceremonial occa- 
sions, are suited to all. 

Round Shoulders. 

Round shoulders often may be cured by the simple and easily performed exer- 
cise of raising one's self upon the toes leisurely in a perpendicular position, several 
times daily. Take a perfectly upright position, with the heels together and the 
toes at an angle of forty-five degrees. Drop the arms listlessly by the sides, ani- 
mating and raising the chest to its full capacity rauscularly, the chin well drawn 
in. Slowly rise upon the balls of the feet to the greatest possible height, thereby 
exercising all the muscles of the legs and body ; come again into the standing posi- 
tion without swinging the body out of perfect line. Repeat this exercise, first on 
one foot and then the other. 

75 



INSTITUTIONS 



TopeKa Industrial and 
El^ducational Institute 

NON-SECTARIAN, C O • E D U C A T I O N A L 

Practical Training of the Negro Touth 

DEPARTMENTS: Industrial, TeacKers* Professional 
EnglisK Normal, Music and Business 



Training Thorough, Systematic and Christian 



THE course in Dressmaking is properly graded. We aim to give 
a thorougli training in all branches of dressmaking and cutting, 
so that girls may make themselves self-supporting, under the most able 
teachers and most approved method of cutting, which is recognized as 
the best system in the country. 



It is with pleasure that we testify to the worth of the Harriet A. 
Brown System of Dressmaking, Bostou, Massachusetts. Ithasheen used 
in our institution for the past six years, with the most satisfactory results. 
We have comjjared it with other systems, and pronounce it the best of 
all. It is the only syston that can be successfully tauglit to beginners. 
The progress made by our students is phenomenal. To persons desiring 
a progressive, accurate and thorough system of Dressmaking, we most 
heartily recommend the Harriet A. ]Jrown System. 

Sincerely yours, 

LOULA B. H.VKKIS, 

Instructor in Dressmaking. 
Willia:n[ R. Carter, 

Principal. 
J. B. Larufer, 

Vice-President Board of Trustees. 



INSTITUTIONS 






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Gi?AMMAi? SCHOOL, NORMAL and SCIENTIFIC COURSE 
Theory and Practice of Housekeeping 

Dressmaking and Cooking Carefully Taught 



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N our Dressmaking Department we have used for many years a 
system invented by Harriet A. Brown of Boston, Mass., which 
we have found very satisfactory, simple and easy of comprehension, 
and better adapted to our work than anv other we have tried. 

We have a Missionary Training School to supply the demand 
at our own door. 

Bible the textbook. 

D. J. Satterfiei.d, D.D., President. 
Mary C. Bell, Prmcipal. 



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INSTITUTIONS 



BENEDICT 
COLLEGE 

COLUMBIA. S, a 

Literary, Classical^ Industrial 

THOROUGH INSTRUCTION TO GIRLS IN 

Sewing, Dressmaking and Domestic W^ork 

A special thorough course for those who wish to follow 
dressmakincr as a business. 



Columbia, S. C, July lo, 1901. 

Mrs. HARRIET A. BROWN. 
Dear Madam: 

No higher proof of the appreciation in Benedict College of 
your system of Dress Cutting and Making could be given than 
the fact that it has been used in the college for six years, and is 
still used, to the exclusion of all other systems. 

By rendering simple, easy to be comprehended, and certain 
in its results, that which otherwise has been largely a matter of 
testing and trying, and hence difficult and of uncertain results, 
your work is really a benefaction. 

A. C. OSBORN, 

President. 
Miss ADALAIDE M. PIERSON, 

TeaeJier of Dressmaking. 



INSTITUTIONS 




Cbe Voung (Uomen's Christian dissociation 

f of lUilmington, Delaware. 

Organized in March, 1894. under adverse circumstances, but by untiring 
efforts a permanent home was soon established at 805 West Street 



CLASSES were formed in Dressmaking-, IMilliuerv, Embroidery, Phj-sical Culture, also other branches of 
industry. Dressmaking as being the most practical branch and appealing to the greatest number of 

' people was the first class started, and while it was up-hill work for a time, we soon convinced the people 

of its success in uplifting the working classes, and preparing them to take up the duties of womanhood more 
luethodically and scientifically. 

The success of the dressmaking classes was due largely to the system used, invented by Harriet A. Brown, 
of the Boston Dressmaking College, a system so easy to comprehend that it soon became" very popular, and 
the classes increased rapidly, and our outgoing pupils have advertised the Harriet A. Brown System and 
instructions have been eagerly sought after. We have had several different dress systems shown tons, but we 
find in this system all that is required to make our work a success, and we heartily recommend it to any and 
all who desire superioritv and simplicity. — R. E. DOWNING, Suherinteudent of Y. W. C. A. 



INSTITUTIONS 



Rochester Athenaeum 
Mechanics Institute 

Founded 1885 

ART ... SCIENCE ... INDUSTRY 

There are Three Departments : 

Department of Domestic Science and Art, 

MARY I. BLISS, Superintendent. 

Department of Manual Training, 

W. W. MURRA V, Superintendent. 

Department of Industrial and Fine Arts, 

E. C. COLBY, Principal. 

Classes are open to all, without distinction of nationality, sex, creed or color. 
There is equality of opportunity for all. During the last year, 1900-1901, 
there were 2,817 pi^^pihs enrolled." The class enrollment was 3,686. The Insti- 
tute is open for day and evening classes. The tuition in the evening is nominal. 

Normal courses extending over periods of from two to three years, are given 
in all the departments, and teachers are thoroughly trained for special work. 

Normal Course in Domestic Science. 
«« " " Domestic Art. 

'< " " Manual Training. 

" Art Course. 

In the department of dressmaking special attention is given to training 
dressmakers, and last year 157 were enrolled in these classes alone. 

The winter term began Jan. 2. 1902. Application may be made at any 
time. Our annual circular will be mailed to any address on receipt of postal card. 

ROCHESTER ATHEN.T:UM AND MECHANICS INSTITUTE, 
55 Plymouth Ave., Rochester, N. Y. 



A system of dress-cutting, invented by Harriet A. Brown, Jias been used in t/ie Mechanics 
Institute for eight years, and lias given excellent satisfaction. It has the merit of being very 
simple, so that one may learn it in a short time, and for ttiis reason is specially adapted for 
use in Domestic Science institutions. We heartily recommend it. 

MARY I. BLISS, Superintendent. 

THERESA COLEMAN, Teactier of Dressmaking. 



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